Free Pattern Cropped Textured Sweater Inspired by Butterick 7557

Hello Guys, I have a confession to make, this sweater was not at all planned, it sneaked up on me after seeing Tasha’s (ByGumByGolly) post on a sweatshirt pattern from the 1950’s (Butterwick 7557). I was in love and could not find it anywhere, what was I to do?! Then, sorting through my yarn, I had a Eureka moment. YARN, HOOK, LET’S DO THIS!!!

My crochet version is significantly different to the actual sewn pattern, but I could not be happier with how it turned out.

Beautiful rib, rolled open neckband, 3/4 length sleeves and lots and lots of texture! Everything I ever wanted! Now, there is no real pattern for this Cropped Chunky Sweater, it is easy to adjust to your own size and the stitches really do all the shaping for you. Keeping this in mind, I will walk you through what I did and the materials I used.

Reminder – I work in US Terms

MATERIALS:

3 balls of Bernat Maker Home Decor Yarn (Bulky weight, 8.8 oz/250g) Of these 3 balls I had 2.5 ounces left over.

6.5mm crochet hook

scissors

darning needle

STITCHES:

Front Post Double Crochet (FPDC)

Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC)

Double Crochet (dc)

Single Crochet (sc)

Single crochet in front and back loop

Chain (Ch)

NOTES:

The recipe is written in US terminology.

THE RECIPE INCLUDES INSTRUCTIONS FOR A 28 – 29″ WAIST. HOWEVER IT INCLUDES INSTRUCTIONS FOR HOW TO ALTER FOR THE DIFFERENT SIZES.

Ch 2 counts as a stitch throughout the pattern.

The body of the sweater is crocheted in two panels, back and front, and then seamed. Sleeves stitches are picked up and worked in the round. Same with the neckline.

Sweater includes a cropped body, a front post back post rib, 3/4 length sleeve and a rolled neckline.

FINISHED GARMENT SIZE for US Small without blocking

Neckband to bottom band – 17″

Shoulder to bottom band – 18″

Length of sleeve – 15″

As this is a recipe you will first need to take some measurements before you start the pattern.

MEASUREMENTS:

1. DETERMINE HOW LONG YOU WANT YOUR GARMENT TO BE AS THIS WILL DETERMINE THE LENGTH NEEDED FOR THE GARMENT.

EXAMPLE – I wanted a cropped garment, so I measured my waist (28.5 – 29 inches) Each panel measured 14 – 14.5 inches, sewn I will have reached my 28 inches

2. Armhole depth – You can take this measurement by using a t shirt that you like the fit of and measuring from the shoulder to the armhole

EXAMPLE – My armhole depth is 8 inches

3. For the shoulder, I folded the garment in half (vertically) and folded in half again. I know, very scientific of me. But the actual shoulder measurement was 3.75. I recommend the folding method as it helps determine the stitch placements for the shoulder.

ONWARDS!!!

We will begin with a front post back post rib. THIS RIB WILL BE THE SAME FOR FRONT AND BACK PANELS.

Row 1 – Ch. 53, 1 dc in the 3rd chain from the hook, 1 dc into each chain across, (or foundation dc 51). Ch 2, turn

Row 2 –  Skip the first stitch (ch 2 counts as our first dc). *Make a fpdc in the next stitch, make a bpdc in the following stitch* Repeat from * to * working a dc into the top of the chain 2. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 3 – Skip the first stitch (ch 2 counts as our first dc). *Make a bpdc in the next stitch, make a fpdc in the following stitch* Repeat from * to * working a dc into the top of the chain 2. Ch2 and turn.

REPEAT ROWS 2 -3 ONCE MORE, you should end up with a total of 5 rows and the rib should measure 2.5 ”

FRONT PANEL:

Once our rib in completed we will move on with working the front panel of our chunky sweater.

Row 1 – Ch 1, turn. For this row we will be working in sc. We will also be increasing to 55 stitches. At the end of the row you should have 55 sc total. Ch 1, turn

Row 2 – *sc in the back loop of the first stitch, sc in the front loop of the next stitch.* Repeat across. Ch 1, turn 55 stitches

Row 3 – 14 – repeat row 2.

 

 

 

 

 

At the end of row 14 ch 2 and turn.

This ch 2 counts as the first dc of the row.

Row 15 – 22 – skipping the first stitch of the row (your ch 2 counts as your first dc), 1 dc in each stitch across, 55 stitches total. At the end of row 22 ch 1 and turn.

Row 23 – 36 – Repeat row 2. Ch 1 and turn

SHOULDER STITCHES

Row 37 – 1 sc in each of the next 12 sc, ch 1 and turn

Row 38 – 41 – Repeat row 37. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail to seam the shoulder.

REPEAT ROWS 37 – 41 FOR THE OTHER SIDE. THE 12 SC SHOULD BE PLACED AT THE ENDS OF YOUR GARMENT, NOT IN THE CENTER OR OFF CENTER.

FRONT PANEL COMPLETE!!!

 

BACK PANEL:

Hem/Rib

Row 1 – Ch. 53, 1 dc in the 3rd chain from the hook, 1 dc into each chain across, (or foundation dc 51). Ch 2, turn

Row 2 –  Skip the first stitch (ch 2 counts as our first dc). *Make a fpdc in the next stitch, make a bpdc in the following stitch* Repeat from * to * working a dc into the top of the chain 2. Ch 2 and turn.

Row 3 – Skip the first stitch (ch 2 counts as our first dc). *Make a bpdc in the next stitch, make a fpdc in the following stitch* Repeat from * to * working a dc into the top of the chain 2. Ch2 and turn.

REPEAT ROWS 2 -3 ONCE MORE, you should end up with a total of 5 rows and the rib should measure 2.5 ”

Row 6 – 1 sc in each stitch across (DO NOT INCREASE) 51 stitches total.

Row 7 – 40 Repeat the alternating sc in the front and back loop. 51 stitches total. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 41- 1 sc in each of the next 12 sc, ch 1 and turn.

Row 42/45 – Repeat row 41. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew the shoulder together.

SEAMING UP THE GARMENT

1. Line both panels right side together.

2. Using the tail end slip stitch the shoulder seams together using the back loops only.

3. For the sides, leave the hem open and slip stitch the sides together leaving an opening for the armhole. This is where the armhole measurement comes in very handy. Do not cut your yarn.

4. Turn your garment right side out, make sure your yarn is on the outside of your garment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

SLEEVES

Row 1 – Re inserting our yarn into the loop of our last slip stitch, ch 1 to bring up the yarn and work a sc in this space. Pick up a total of 42 sc around the sleeve opening Slip stitch to the first sc to join. Ch 1

Row 2 – 1 sc into each sc. slip stitch to the first sc to join. Ch 1.

Rows 3 – 5 : repeat row 2. 42 stitches. Do not forget to slip stitch into the first sc to join and then chain 1.

NOTE: after we have completed row 5, we will ch 2, this will count as our first dc of the next row.

Row 6 – 1dc into each stitch across, join with a slip stitch to the top of the ch 2. Ch 2

Row 7 – 10: Repeat row 6.

Row 11 – 1 invisible dc decrease over the first two stitches after the Ch 2. 1 dc into each stitch before reaching the final two stitches. Invisible dc decrease over these last two stitches, Join with a slip stitch to the top of the Ch 2, Ch 2 40 stitches total.

Row 12 – 1 dc into each dc across, join with a slip stitch to the top of the Ch 2, Ch2.

Row 13 – 20: Repeat row 12.

Row 21 – 1 invisible dc decrease over the first two stitches after the Ch 2. 1 dc into each stitch before reaching the final two stitches. Invisible dc decrease over these last two stitches, Join with a slip stitch to the top of the Ch 2, Ch 2 38 stitches total.

Rows 22 – 23 : 1 dc into each dc across, join with a slip stitch to the top of the Ch 2, Ch2.

Row 24 – 1 invisible dc decrease over the first two stitches after the Ch 2. 1 dc into each stitch before reaching the final two stitches. Invisible dc decrease over these last two stitches, Join with a slip stitch to the top of the Ch 2, Ch 2 36 stitches total.

Row 25 – 1 dc into each dc across, join with a slip stitch to the top of the Ch 2, Ch 1.

Row 26 – 1 sc into each dc across, join to the first sc. Ch 1

Row 27 – 1 alternating sc in the front and back loop across. join with a slip stitch to the first sc, Ch1 and turn.

Row 28 – 30 : Repeat row 27. Don’t forget to ch 1 and turn at the end of the round.

**MAKE SURE TO COUNT YOUR STITCHES, YOU SHOULD ALWAYS HAVE 36 STITCHES AFTER COMPLETING YOUR ROUND.

** WATCH THE VIDEO TUTORIAL FOR DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS ON COMPLETING THE SLEEVE (TIME – )

NECKBAND

Row 1 – Join your yarn to the stitch right under your shoulder seam in the back panel. Ch2. Work 1 dc into each of the next 31 stitches, *You will have reached your shoulder. Work 1 dc decrease over the next 2 stitches. Work 1 dc over the next 3 stitches. You will have reached your shoulder seam, work a dc decrease over the seam stitches. This means we will be working into the stitches immediately before and after the seam, not the seam itself. Work 1 dc into the next 3 stitches, work a dc decrease over the next two stitches.* Work 1 dc into each sc then repeat from * to * join with a slip stitch to the top of the ch2

NOTE: Your final decrease will happen over the 2 stitches before your ch2, which means  you will only make 2 dc before making your decreases.

Row 2 – fpdc into the next stitch, bpdc into the following stitch, repeat around and join with a slip stitch to the top of the ch 2. Ch1

Row 3 – Work 1 sc into the ch 2 space from the row below. work *1 sc into the front loop of the next stitch* Repeat from * to * Join with a slip stitch to the first sc and fasten off.

 

 

And there you go! You are the proud owner of a comfy garment that like me, you won’t want to take off!

DON’T FORGET TO WEAVE IN ENDS!

 

Let me know what you think in the comments below!