Crochet A-Line skirts are a must in your wardrobe. So simple to make and so easy to style. This A-Line skirt is very simple to crochet, all you need to know is how to make hdc stitches and the suzzette stitch, explained below. The pattern is available in both English and Spanish.

crochet a-like skirt

Hello again!

Saludos a tod@s!

For the past two weeks, I have been working monogamously on this crochet a-line skirt, which I am calling my Peach Fuzz skirt. I decided to crochet this skirt with Vidalana Aloft. I received the yarn in June Membership Crate and fell in love with it as soon as I opened the box.

The yarn did not disappoint, it was beautiful to work with. Not only was the yarn a dream to work with but the blend was soft and buttery, Merino, Alpaca and Cotton. The alpaca content gives the yarn a nice halo and the cotton made it warm yet breathable. All in all, I would highly recommend this blend, Oh and before I forget, it is chain plied and shows off crochet stitches beautifully!

crochet skirt in progress.

Estás últimas dos semanas se las he dedicado, apasionadamente, a una falda tejida que la he llamado Peach Fuzz por el color y el componente del hilo. El hilo es una mezcla de materiales alucinantes, Merino, Alpaca, y Algodón. Esta mezcla pertenece a la madeja Vidalana del June Membership box de Knitcrate y es preciosa, el color que me llegó a mi fue tiger lily, un color con tonalidades peach, coral y anaranjadas.

The color and feel of the yarn had me so enamored that I wanted to make something I would wear. After 2 failed attempts at making a top, the yarn decided it wanted to be a skirt. Right on! But, what kind of skirt to crochet? I wanted something simple, but that also drew attention with texture. I’m all about texture this year guys, oh and green, all about green well chartreuse specifically, but we are getting off-topic!

El color y la textura tan suave del hilo me convencieron de que debía interntar tejer ropa. Luego de dos intentos fallidos de crear una blusa, el hilo me suspiró que tal vez sería mejor diseñar una falda. Quería un diseño simple que se enfocara en la textura del hilo. Este año las texturas para mí has sido todo, bueno textura y el color verde.

Back to crochet skirts! Texture was called for so I chose the ever pleasing half double crochet stitch to make the body of my skirt and I wanted a block of the Suzette stitch as a border for the skirt. I felt this stitch would not shine in a flared out design so I went for a crochet A-line skirt. It all sounds very pleasing right now, doesn’t it. A simple yet texturally elegant project. But it didn’t turn out exactly as expected. I honestly feel like the power packing texture design I had in my head didn’t come to fruition. Still got a nice skirt out of it so it’s 50/50.

Con textura en mente, escogí trabajar con el punto medio alto y un borde en la puntada suzzette (a la verdad que en español npi cómo se le dice a esta combinación de punto bajo y punto alto). La idea era utilizar el punto medio alto para la mayor parte de la falda y luego hacer un borde con el punto suzzette, aunque eso fue lo que hice, el impacto no fue trascendental. :D.

Skirt Construction/ Construcción de la falta:

I like crocheting skirts with an elastic waistband, I just feel they are more likely to stay up if there is elastic helping things along. The first order of business is to cut a piece of 1″ elastic that fits around your waist, I rescued mine from a pair of pyjama pants that were way too short to be called pants. Then I crocheted a band to cover the elastic, I crocheted 134 rows of single crochet. And that is when I had an epiphany, I had already crocheted a skirt that was similar but had granny squares as the border instead of the Suzzette Stitch, and it was a free pattern! Funnily enough, I had the correct stitch count for the size small so I used the Drops pattern as a reference and crocheted on, I was not going to re-invent the wheel. And that is the long and short or it, guys. The Peach Fuzz Skirt was born.

A mi me gusta tejer faldas con una cintura elástica, así siento que no se me va a caer mientras camino o me siento. Yo utilizé un elástico que rescaté de unas pijamas que ya quedaban tan cortas que so se le podía llamar pijamas. Luego tejí una banda de 8 puntos bajos para cubrir el elástico. Terminé con un total de 134 filas de puntos bajos. Por alguna razón este número me pareció haberlo usado en una falda antes, y efectivamente hay un patrón de drops que utliza 134 puntos altos para la talla pequeña.

crocheting the waistband for the a-line skirt

Little Side Note, I worked this crochet a-line skirt by joining at the end of every round, but because of the nature of hdc, the stitches tend to lean to the right and create a traveling seam. There are some tips and tricks on how to avoid the traveling seam, but I still felt the seam was a tad too noticeable for my liking. I would recommend that you work it in the round using a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Nota al calce: La falda que les enseño aquí la trabaje uniendo en cada vuelta, no recomiendo esto. ¿Por qué? Porque cuando trabajas con el punto medio alto en vuelta las puntadas tienden a correr hacia la derecha y aunque hay algunos trucos para hacer una costura derecha, yo prefiero ir en vuelta redonda sin unir, como cuando se teje amigurumis, simplemente utiliza un marcador de puntos para marcar el inicio de la vuelta.


Elastic – elástico

3 Hanks of Vidalana Yarn from Knitcrate in Tiger Lily (DK Weight) for the size small. 4 for medium, 5 for Large, 6 for X-L – 3 madejas de Vidalana en el color Tiger Lily, un hilo dk. 3 madejas para el tamaño pequeño, 4 para el mediano, 5 para el grande, 6 para el x-l

20 g of a contrasting colour (optional) – 20g de un color que contraste (opcional)

4mm hook

Stitch marker – marcadores de punto

Pair of scissors – tijeras

Darning needle – aguja de remate



sc – pb (punto bajo)

hdc – pma (punto medio alto)

dc – pa (punto alto)

suzzette stitch – 1sc and 1dc in the same stitch. Tutorial / 1 pb y un pa en el mismo punto.

Crochet A-Line Skirt Instructions:

If you are not rescuing the elastic from a garment you no longer use, then please hold the ends together and sew with a 5/8″ seam allowance. // Si no estás rescatando un elástico previamente cosido, pues mide un pedazo de elástico del tamaño de tu cintura y uniendo los raw edges coser en 5/8″.

Grab your yarn, make a slip knot leaving a long tail to sew the ends later. ch 9

Agarramos nuestro hilo y comenzamos haciendo 9 cadenetas, dejamos una cola larga.

Row 1 – make 1sc in the second chain from the hook. sc in the remaining chain. 8sc.  Ch1 and turn.

Hacer un pb en la segunda cadeneta del ganchillo, un pb en todas las cadenetas restantes. 8pb. 1 cadeneta y volteamos

Row 2 – 134 (152-168-186-202) 1 sc in each sc. Ch 1 and turn

Filas 2 – 134 (152-168-186-202) 1 pb en cada pb. 1 cadeneta y volteamos.

Fold the crochet over the elastic, ( we are taking about the long or the “raw edges” of the crochet) Join the folded over edges with 134 (152-168-186-202) single crochet, slip stitch to the first sc to join, CH 2, place stitch marker we will now begin working in the round. Before starting the skirt proper I like to use the long tail of yarn to sew the gap over the elastic shut. But you can do this after you have finished the skirt as well.

Doblamos nuestra banda tejida por la mitad y colocamos el elástico dentro. Unimos por el lado largo con 134 (152-168-186-202) pb, punto raso sobre el primer pb. 2 cadenetas y colocamos nuestro marcador. Ahora comenzaremos a trabajar en espiral, pero antes de proceder con la falda, unimos las esquinas del tejido con la cola larga que dejamos al principio.

seaming a crochet waistband

We will begin working our skirt from the sc join. // Comenzaremos nuestra falda desde las 2 cadenetas.

Round 1 – skip the first sc (the ch 2 counts as the first hdc) hdc in every single crochet 134 (152-168-186-202). Do not join

Saltamos el primer pb (las 2 cadenetas cuentan como el primer pma) un pma en cada pb 134 (152-168-186-202). Recuerda que seguiremos trabajando en espiral así que no unimos.

Round 2 – Work 1 hdc in every hdc around. 134 (152-168-186-202)

1 pma en cada pma de la vuelta anterior. 134 (152-168-186-202).

Round 3 – Increase round (6 stitches increased). *22 hdc, 2 hdc inc, * REpeat from * to * around. After the last increase you will not have 22 hdc. This is true for every increase round. 140( 158- 174 – 192-208)

Incremento – *22 pma, 2 pma inc* Repetimos de *a* alrededor. 140( 158- 174 – 192-208)

Round 4 – 1 hdc in every hdc 140( 158- 174 – 192-208)

1 pma en cada pma 140( 158- 174 – 192-208)

Round 5 – Increase round (6 stitches increased) *23hdc, 2 hdc inc*  Repeat from * to * around. 146 (164-180-198-214)

Incremento – *23 pma, 2pma inc* Repetir de * a * alrededor. 146 (164-180-198-214)

Round 6 – 1 hdc in every hdc. 146 (164-180-198-214)

1pma en cada pma. 146 (164-180-198-214)

Round 7 – Increase round (6 stitches increased) *24hdc, 2 hdc inc* Repeat from * to * around. 152 (170-186-204-220)

Incremento – *24pma, 2pma inc* Repetir de * a * vuelta 152 (170-186-204-220)

Round 8 – 1 hdc in every hdc. 152 (170-186-204-220)

1pma en cada pma. 152 (170-186-204-220)

Round 9 – Increase round (6 stitches increased) *25 hdc, 2 hdc inc* Repeat from * to * around. 158 (176-192-210-226)

Incremento – *25pma, 2 pma inc* Repetir de * a * en vuelta. 158 (176-192-210-226)

Round 10 – 1 hdc in every hdc. 158 (176-192-210-226)

1pma en cada pma de la vuelta anterior. 158 (176-192-210-226)

Round 11 – Increase round (6 stitches increased) *26 hdc, 2 hdc inc.* Repeat from * to * around. 164 (182-198-216-232)

Incremento – *26pma, 2 pma inc* Repetir de *a* 164 (182-198-216-232)

Round 12 – 1 hdc in every hdc. 164 (182-198-216-232)

1 pma en cada pma de la vuelta anterior. 164 (182-198-216-232)

Round 13 Increase round (6 stitches increased) *27 hdc, 2 hdc inc* Repeat from * to * around. 170 (188-204-222-238)

Incremento – *27 pma, 2 pma inc* Repetir de * a * . 170 (188-204-222-238)

Round 14 – 1 hdc in every hdc. 170 (188-204-222-238)

1 pma en cada pma 170 (188-204-222-238)

Round 15 – (Increase round) *28 hdc, 2 hdc inc. Repeat from * to * around. 176 ( 194-210-228-244)

Incremento – *28 pma, 2 pma inc* REpetir de * a *. 176 ( 194-210-228-244)

Round 16 – 1 hdc in every hdc.176 ( 194-210-228-244)

1 pma en cada pma de la vuelta anterior. 176 ( 194-210-228-244)

Round 17 – Increase round) *29 hdc, 2 hdc inc* repeat from * to * around. 182(200-216-234-250)

Incremento – *29 pma, 2 pma inc* Repetir de *a* . 182(200-216-234-250)

Round 18 – 1 hdc in every hdc. 182(200-216-234-250)

1 pma en cada pma de la vuelta anterior. 182(200-216-234-250)

Round 19 – Increase round) *30 hdc, 2 hdc inc* Repeat from *to* around. 188(206-222-240-256)

Incremento – *30 pma, 2 pma inc* Repetir de * a *. 188(206-222-240-256)

Round 20 – 47 1 hdc in every hdc. 188(206-222-240-256)

vuelta 20 – 47 1 pma en cada pma de la vuelta anterior. 188(206-222-240-256)

Round 48 – Ch 1, suzzette stitch in the same space, *SK 1, suzzette stitch* Repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to the first sc to join. CH 1

vuelta 48 – 1 cadeneta, suzzette stitch en el mismo punto, *salta 1, suzzette stitch* Repetir de * a *. Punto raso en el primer pb de la cuelta. 1 cadeneta

Round 49 – 51 ) Suzzette stitch in every sc from the previous row. Slip stitch to join and CH 1

Vuelta 49 a 51 – Punto suzzette en cada pb de la vuelta anterior. Punto raso para unir.

Fasten off, weave in ends and wear proudly!

Rematamos, y bloqueamos y ya! Tenemos una falda tejida lista!

crochet a-line skirt

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