Crochet Laceweight Socks

Crochet Laceweight socks might sound crazy but using a Laceweight – nylon blend yarn to crochet socks makes a very thin and wearable sock. It changes the way crochet socks feel and wear. You can read my thoughts on crochet sock yarns here. Read about my process for these socks or scroll to begin the Basic Crochet Laceweight Sock Pattern.

Why Crochet Socks?

Crochet socks have been on my mind quite a lot lately. I think I have a fair amount of experience in making them, I mean I’m no where near, Caroline’s or Ron Strong’s level of experience, but I like to think I have learned a thing or two about crocheting socks. One of the things to take into account is that the yarn can change everything about the pattern.

Typically, fingering weight yarn is used to knit socks as well as crochet them. For knit socks this yarn works well, it produces a fabric that is thin enough to fit in any shoe. On the other hand, using fingering weight yarn in crochet tends to produce a denser fabric, not necessarily a bad thing, but expect a different feel to the knit sock. Also, keep in mind that crochet socks are really finnicky and your tension has to be spot on with the designers.

Laceweight, the key…

If the goal was to produce a crochet sock that would feel more like a knit one, then thinner yarn was needed. I’m certainly not the first person to theorize this, Caroline of mindandmusecrafts, Kathryn of crafternoontreats, and others made similar statements. Kathryn even stocks a laceweight nylon blend yarn in her shop. Ever since Kathryn stocked this base, I have been meaning to try my hand at crocheting a sock with this yarn, my husband wanting another pair of handmade socks brought the perfect opportunity.

Socks for husband were a go, with these Crochet Laceweight Socks he hardest part was deciding on what stitch count and what stitch to use. I with a 64 stitch sock that had to be completely ripped back because it was ginormous. After frogging, I made my u-toe with 56 stitches using sc. Part of me still feels like sc might be too light a stitch but only time and wear will tell if I was correct.

Once the toe had worked out, I wanted to crochet the foot using my favorite stitch, extended sc, but the stitch felt way too loose and delicate. I was honestly frustrated that I couldn’t use my favorite stitch, mom saved me here. She reminded me of the beauty of linked stitches for socks. To make the crochet laceweight socks chose to do the linked dc for speed and cushion purposes.

Stitches for the toe and the body decided, I only had the heel, leg and cuff to consider. The short row heel seemed like the best choice because of my experience making it. The leg of the sock was also completed with linked dc, but the cuff was a bit of a faff as the British would say. I tried about 3 different cuffs before deciding to go with camel stitch (hdc in the third loop), which is really more decorative than an actual cuff.

Crochet Laceweight Socks Pattern:

MATERIALS:

Laceweight/Nylon Blend Yarn 100g/800metres – Approximately 65 grams left over.

• 2.5mm hook
• stitch marker
• scissors
• darning needle
• Tape measure
• foot measurements

STITCH GUIDE:

• linked double crochet – linked dc
• single crochet – sc
• camel stitch – hdc in the third loop
• slip stitch – ss
• inc – increase
• dec – decrease

//

• punto alto unido – pa unido – Insertamos el ganchillo en la barra horizontal del punto alto, cojemos hilo y pasamos. Insertamos el ganchillo en el proximo punto, cojemos hilo y pasamos. Cojemos hilo pasamos por 2, cojemos hilo y pasamos por dos.
• punto bajo – pb
• punto medio alto – pma
• punto raso – pr
• inc – incremento.
• cadeneta – ca

NOTES:

• Socks were made for a foot that measured 11.5″ in length
• Sock pattern written for a 56 stitch sock, if you need your sock to be tighter you can, of course, stop after you increase to 48 stitches.
• Measurements are really, really important in crochet socks.
• Working with lace weight yarn and a 2.5mm hook can be a bit challenging, stitch markers to mark the beg of the round, and the heel stitches are highly recommended.
• To make sure that the seams faced the inside, on one sock I crocheted the heel right after I joined, and on the other, I worked my front stitches and then started my heel.
• Unused to working with such thin yarn and hook? So am I, just be patient and don’t rush yourself, you will complete the sock!

Gauge: In 4 inches using a 2.5mm hook – 26 stitches X 16 rows of linked dc

PATTERN:

U-Toe (Puntera en forma de U)

Make a magic loop and ch 1 to close // Haz un loop mágico y 1 cadeneta para cerrar.

Round 1 – Ch 1 , 8 sc into the ring. Slip stitch to the first sc to join.

Vuelta1 cadeneta, 8 puntos bajos en el anillo. Punto raso en el primer pb para unir.

Round 2 – Ch 1, sc2inc around. Slip stitch to join 16 sc

1 cadeneta ,2pb en cada pb de la vuelta anterior. Punto raso para unir.

Round 3 – Ch 1 , *sc2inc, sc* repeat from * to *. Slip stitch to join 24 sc

1 cadeneta,  *2 pb en un pb, 1pb* repetir de * a * . Punto Raso

Round 4 and 5 – ch 1, 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join 24 sc

Vuelta 4 y 5 – 1 cadeneta, 1 pb en cada pb de la vuelta anterior. Punto raso para unir.

Round 6 – Ch 1 , *sc2inc, 2sc* repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join. 32 sc

1 cadeneta, *2pb en un pb, 2 pb* repetir de * a * alrededor. Punto raso para unir.

Round 7 to 9 – Ch 1, 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join. 32sc

Vuelta 7 a la 9 – 1 cadeneta, 1pb en cada pb de la vuelta anterior. Punto raso para unir.

Round 10- Ch 1, *sc2inc, 3sc* repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join. 40 sc.

1 cadeneta, *2pb en un punto pb, 3pb* repetir de *a*. Punto raso para unir.

Round 11 and 12 – 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join.

Vuelta 11 y 12 – 1 pb en cada pb de la vuelta anterior. Punto raso para unir.

**Round 13 – Ch 1 *sc2inc, 4 sc* repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join** 48sc.

1 cadeneta *2pb en un pb, 4pb* repetir de * a * . Punto raso para unir.

Round 14 and 15 – 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join.

Vuelta 14 y 15 – 1 pb en cada pb de la vuelta anterior. Punto raso para unir

Round 16 – Ch 1 *sc2inc, 5sc* repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join 56 sc.

Continue crocheting 1 sc in each sc until you have completed 2″ Slip stitch to join, CH1

Continuamos tejiendo 1 pb en cada pb hasta que tejamos 2″ del puntero. Punto raso para unir y 1 cadeneta.

Foot (Pie)

Round 1 – 1 dc in the first sc. 1 linked dc into each sc around. ss to the first dc to join. Ch1

Vuelta 1 – 1 pa en el primer pb. pa unido en cada punto. punto raso para unir al primer punto de la vuelta. 1Ca.

Round 2 – 1dc in the first linked dc, 1 linked dc into the remaining stitches. ss to the first stitch to join. Ch1.

Vuelta 2 – 1 pa en el primer punto, pa unido en cada punto. punto raso para unir al primer punto. 1 ca.

Continue repeating round 2 until you have reached 3″ before your heel. For the sample sock that was 16 rounds 6.75″

Contínuamos repitiendo la vuelta 2 hasta que nos resten 3″ para llegar al talón. En la media modelo completé 16 vueltas, apróximadamente 6.75″.

Mini Gusset

We will only increase on either side of the back of the sock, these will be our heel stitches. // Solo incrementaremos en la parte de atrás de la media, estos puntos formaran el talón.

Round 17 – 20 – Ch1, dc in the first stitch, linked dc in the first stitch (increase), linked dc into the next 26 stitches, inc in the next stitch. Continue working 1 linked dc in each stitch until the beg of the round. Ss to join. After completing round 20 you should have 32 stitches for the back.

Vueltas 17 a la 20 – 1 ca, pa en el primer punto, pa unido en el primer punto (inc), pa unido en los próximos 26 puntos, inc en el próximo punto. 1 pa unido en los puntos restantes. terminamos la vuelta completando un pr. luego de completar la vuelta num 20, debemos tener 32 puntadas en la parte de atras.

Heel (Talón)

Row 1 – 1sc in the first stitch, 1 sc in each of the next 31 stitches. Ch1 and turn.

1 Punto bajo en cada punto bajo de la vuelta anterior. 1 cadeneta y volteamos.

Row 2 : sc in each stitch accross, leaving the last stitch unworked. We have decreased 1. 31

pb en cada punto dejando el último pb de la vuelta anterior sin trabajar.

Repeat round 2 until you have 16 stitches remaining. You should be on the right side of the work.

Repetimos la vuelta anterior hasta que tengamos un total de 16 pb. Estaremos en el lado correcto del trabajo.

Heel Turn // Vuelta del talón:

Row 1 – Ch1 and turn. (wrong side) Work 1 sc in every sc, then work 1 sc into the sc from the row below (the sc you had skipped) , slip stitch into the next sc from the row below (place stitch marker). Ch1 and turn. 17

hacemos 1 cadeneta y volteamos. Tejemos un pb en cada pb, luego tejemos un pb en el pb de la fila anterior, punto raso en la siguiente fila. Colocamos un marcador de puntos, hacemos una cadeneta y volteamos. 17

Row 2 – work 1 sc in every sc, then work 1 sc into the sc from the row below, slip stitch into the next sc from the row below (place stitch marker). Ch1 and turn 18

hacemos un pb en cada pb, lugo un pb en el pb de la fila anterior, punto raso en la siguiente fila. Colocamos un marcador. 1 cadeneta y volteamos. 18

Row 3 – work 1 sc in every sc, then work 1 sc into the sc we had last sliped stitched into. Slip stitch into the sc from the row below (place stitch marker). Ch1 and turn 19

hacemos 1 pb en cada pb, luego un pb en el pb en el cual hicimos un punto raso. Punto raso en el pb de la fila anterior. 1 cadeneta y volteamos 19

Repeat row 3 until you have used up all your heel stitches and your last slip stitch has been worked into the inseam stitch (side stitch at the beg of the round). Total of 32 heel stitches.

repetimos la fila número 3 hasta que usemos todos los puntos de la solapa del talón. El último punto raso debe quedarte en el punto donde comienza la vuelta. 32.

Leg:

I completed all my sc on one side, turned my work and was facing the right side. // Yo terminé con mis puntos del talón en un lado y cuando di la vuelta estaba con el lado derecho del frente.

Round 1 – 1 sc in each sc, 1 linked dc in each linked dc. Ss to the first sc. Ch1

1 pb en cada pb, 1 pa unido en cada pa. punto raso para unir. Ch1

Round 2 – 1 dc in the first stitch, 1 linked dc in each stitch. ss to the first stitch ch1,

1 pa en el primer punto, 1 pa unido en cada punto. Punto raso para unir. Ch1.

Round 3 – Decrease round, we will decrease on either side of the heel. 1 dc in the first stitch, linked dc dec over the next 2 stitches. 1 linked dc in each stitch until you 2 stitches before the side of the heel. linked dc dec over the next 2 stitches, linked dc in each stitch until the end of the round. Ss to join. Ch 1 // 2 stitches decreased.

En esta vuelta vamos a disminuir en cada lado del talón, 1 pa en el primer punto, disminución en el pa unido sobre los dos siguientes puntos. 1 pa unido en cada punto hasta que nos falten 2 puntos para llegar al lado opuesto del talón. pa unido en cada punto hasta compeltar la vuelta. Punto raso para unir. Ch 1 // hemos disminuido dos puntos.

Repeat round 3 , 3 more times (56 stitches)

REpetimos la vuelta núm 3, 3 veces más hasta haber disminuido a los 56 puntos con los que comenzamos.

Round 7 to 8 – 1dc in the first stitch, 1 linked dc in each stitch. SS to join. Ch1

Vuelta 7 y 8 – 1 pa en el primer punto, 1 pa unido en cada punto. Punto Raso, CH1.

CUFF // Caña

Round 9 – hdc in each stitch around. Do not slip stitch to join, we will now begin working in a spiral.

pma (punto medio alto) en cada punto de la vuelta anterior. No unimos con punto raso, vamos a comenzar a trabajar en espiral.

Round 10 – 12 – camel stitch

Vuelta 10 a la 12 – punto fantasía (samel stitch en crochet)

Your Crochet Laceweight Socks are complete! Be patient working laceweight with a 2.5mm hook can feel quite tedious, but the end result in well worth it!

XOXO

Clarisabeth

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