Take a stroll down memory lane with these star wars crochet socks. The Endor Moon crochet socks were designed to appease my geeky side. Using a combination of moss stitch and squished single crochet they are meant to evoke the scene of the Return of the Jedi when the Rebels get taken to the heart of the ewok village. Crochet these star wars crochet socks to keep the force with you.

endor moon crochet socks

I’m so excited to share these socks with you, the idea to make Star Wars inspired socks hit me after watching Episode _ of the Stitchcraft&Wizardry podcast. The lovely Anna told her husband that she would ask if I would design a pair of Start Wars Socks. Challenge accepted!

When I first set out to make Star Wars inspired socks I wanted to create socks that reminded me of Tatooine, it’s sandstorms and hard living. But when I swatched for the Squished Single Crochet Stitch in the round, I knew I had to make socks that reminded me of Endor.

Once Endor popped into my head I knew I had to make my socks in a very precious hank of yarn. Every Library needs a plant is a wonderful shade of green that reminds me a bit of a Venus fly trap. The yarn was dyed by Emmy couture yarns, unfortunately she gave up dying about a year and a half ago. The yarn is a fingering weight merino nylon blend with a high twist, perfect for crochet socks.

star wars crochet socks

Crochet socks can be quite intimidating and finicky. In fact you might even give up making it half way through but don’t, follow the adventure and see what lies on the other side. If you would like to learn more about crochet socks you can read my input in Understanding Crochet Socks.

Star Wars Crochet Socks – Endor Moon:

Materials for star wars crochet socks:

1 hank of fingering weight 75/25 Merino Nylon Yarn with 462 yards and a high twist. I used Emmy couture Yarn in “Every Library Needs a Plant” sadly she no longer dyes yarn.

3mm hook or hook needed to obtain gauge.

tape measure

scissors

tapestry needle

stitch marker (optional)

Sizes: small – 48 stitch count to fit a foot that measures 9.75″ or smaller. (56 stitch count to fit a foot larger than 9.75″)

Gauge: 7 stitches x 10 rows 2″ of squished single crochet done in the round.

Finished Sock measurements – 8.75″, 9.75″

Skill Level: Intermediate, a lot of faffing can be involved.

Pattern Notes:

Instructions written for a size small (medium) // Instrucciones escritas para el tamaño pequeño (mediano)

The stitch counts provided can be adjusted to fit your foot. For example you may find that the 48 stitch count is enough but your desired foot sock length is 9.5” Simply follow the pattern and follow your foot measurement to make the sock longer than the size small indicates. // Los tamaños provistos se pueden ajustar para tu pie. Por ejemplo tal vez encuentres que 48 puntos es más que suficiente de ancho, pero tu pie es más largo de 9.75″ No te preocupes simplemente teje hasta que estés 1″ menos de donde usualmente empezarías el talón.

If you do not meet gauge you can still make the sock just be aware that you will have to follow your measurements for adjustments. //Sí no llegaste a tener los mismos puntos que los indicados en la muestra de tensión ten en mente que tendrás que ajustar el patrón a tu medida.

Before starting the sock pattern you will need your total foot length measurement. Your total sock length will be approximately 1” less than your foot length. //Antes de empezar el patrón mide bien tu pie, y calcula el largo de la media deseado, este debe ser 1″ menos que el total de tu pie.

Stitches:

Magic Ring – anillo

ch – chain // ca – cadeneta

sl st – slip stitch // pr – punto raso

sc- single crochet //pb – punto bajo

sc2inc – single crochet increase // pb2au – aumento en punto bajo

hdc – half double crochet // pma – punto medio alto

hdc2inc – hdc increase (2 hdc in the same stitch) //pma2au – 2 pma en un mismo punto (aumento)

Special Stitches:

squished sc – squished single crochet // para este punto no he encontrado traducción así que vamos literal con pb aplastado.

  • squished sc – insert your hook into a stitch, pull up a loop, insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop. Yarn over pull through 3 loops and ch 1. **The ch1 completes the stitch!
  • insertamos en ganchillo en el punto, cogemos hebra y la pasamos por el punto, insertamos el ganchillo en el siguiente punto, cogemos hebra y la pasamos por el punto, tenemos tres hebras en el ganchillo, cogemos hebra y pasamos por las tres, 1 ca. La cadeneta completa el punto.

moss stitch – sl st in one stitch, hdc in the next. // punto musgo – pr en un punto, pma en el siguiente.

ENDOR MOON CROCHET SOCK INSTRUCTIONS:

TOE:

Make a magic loop and ch 1 to close.

Round 1 – Ch 1 , 8 sc into the ring. Slip stitch to the first sc to join.
Round 2 – Ch 1, sc2inc around. Slip stitch to join 16 sc
Round 3 – Ch 1 , sc2inc, sc repeat from * to *. Slip stitch to join 24 sc
Round 4 and 5 – ch 1, 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join 24 sc
Round 6 – Ch 1 , *sc2inc, 2sc* repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join. 32 sc
Round 7 to 9 – Ch 1, 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join. 32sc
Round 10- Ch 1, *sc2inc, 3sc* repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join. 40 sc.
Round 11 and 12 – 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join.
Round 13 – Ch 1 *sc2inc, 4 sc* repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join 48sc.
Round 14 and 15 – 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join.
for size Medium :
Round 16 – Ch 1 *sc2inc, 5sc* repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join 56 sc.
Continue with 1 sc in each stitch until your toe measures 2”

//

Puntero:

Hacemos un anillo mágico y lo cerramos con una ca.

Vuelta 1 – 1ca, 8 pb en el anillo. pr al primer pb para unir. 8pb
Vuelta 2 – 1 ca, pb2au en cada pb. pr para unir. 16pb
Vuelta 3 – 1 ca , *pb2au, pb* repetimos de * a * alrededor. pr para unir 24pb
Vuelta 4 y 5 – 1ca, 1 pb en cada punto, pr para unir. 24 pb.
Vuelta 6 – 1ca, *pb2au, 2 pb* repetimos de *a* y unimos con pr. 32pb
Vuelta 7 y 9 – 1ca, 1pb en cada pb. pr para unir. 32 pb
Vuelta 10 – 1 ca, *pb2au, 3sc* repetimos de *a* pr para unir. 40pb
Vuelta 11 y 12 – 1 ca, 1 pb en cada punto. pr para unir. 40pb
Vuelta 13 – 1ca *pb2au, 4sc* repetimos de *a*. pr para unir 48sc.
Vuelta 14 y 15 – 1 pb en cada punto. pr para unir. 48pb


for size Medium :
Vuelta 16 – 1ca, *pb2au,5pb* repetimos de * a *, pr para unir. 56pb.
Continua con 1pb en cada punto hasta que el puntero mida 2″.

crochet toe

Foot:

R1 – Ch 1, hdc in first stitch, sl st in the next Repeat from * to * until you have worked 24(28) stitches [this will be the bottom of the foot], work squished sc over the remaining 24 (28) stitches. Do not join. We will now be working in a spiral.
R2 – hdc in each stitch of the bottom 24(28), squished sc in each squished sc of the row below.
R3 – moss stitch over the 24(28)bottom stitches, squished sc in each squished sc of the row below.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until your sock measures 4(5)” less than your desired sock length, or as close as you can get it.
I reached 4 inches less than my desired sock length on row 13 (moss stitch row)

//

Vuelta 1 – 1 ca, *pma en el primer punto, pr en el siguiente* repetimos de *a* hasta que completemos 24(28) puntos (estos forman la suela del pie), completamos pb aplastado en los puntos restante 24(28) Empezamos a trabajar en espiral.
Vuelta 2 – pma en cada punto de la suela 24(28) pb aplastado en los puntos restantes.
Vuelta 3 – punto musgo en los 24(28) de la suela, pb aplastado en los puntos restante.

Repetimos las vueltas 2 y 3 hasta que la media mida 4(5)” menos que el largo de la media deseado. O lo más cercano posible. Yo completé 13 filas .

Mini Gusset // Empeine del talón
R1 – hdc2inc, hdc in each stitch stopping when you are 1 stitch away from the squished sc, hdc2inc. squished sc in each squished sc of the row below. 26(30)
R2 – moss stitch over the bottom stitches, squished sc in each squished sc of the row below. 26(30)
R3 – hdc2inc, hdc in each stitch stopping when you are 1 stitch away from the squished sc, hdc2inc. squished sc in each squished sc of the row below. 28(32)
R4 – moss stitch over the bottom stitches, squished sc in each squished sc of the row below.
R5 – hdc2inc, hdc in each stitch stopping when you are 1 stitch away from the squished sc, hdc2inc. squished sc in each squished sc of the row below.30(34)

//

1 – pma2au , pma en cada punto parando un punto antes del frente de la media, pma2au, pb aplastado en los puntos restantes. 26(30)
2 – punto musgo en la suela, pb aplastado en los puntos restantes. 26(30)
3 – pma2au, pma en punto parando un punto antes del frente de la media, pma2au, pb aplastado en los puntos restantes 28(32)
4 – punto musgo en la sula, pb aplastado en los puntos restantes. 28(32)
5 –pma2au, pma en punto parando un punto antes del frente de la media, pma2au, pb aplastado en los puntos restantes 30(34)

Heel // Talón
Row 1 – sl st 8(9) stitches, sc 14(16) Ch1 and turn. (you will leave the remaining stitches unworked, there should be 8(9) stitches left unworked.
Row 2 – sc in each sc stopping 2 stitches before the end of the row, sc dec over the last 2 stitches. Ch1 and turn.
Repeat Row 2 until you have completed 10(12) more decrease rows. You will have a total of 12(14) heel rows.

//

1 – pr en 8(9) puntos, pb 14(16) 1ca volteamos dejando el resto de los puntos sin trabajar. Deben restar 8(9).
2 – pb en cada punto parando 2 puntos antes del último punto, disminución pb sobre estos puntos. 1ca y volteamos.
Repetimos la fila 2 hasta que hayamos completado 10(12) disminuciones más. Tendrás un total de 12(14) filas en el talón.


Heel turn // Parte alta del talón
R1 – With right side facing you work 1 sc in each sc (3), work 12(14)sc down the side of the heel. sl st to the next stitch (this stitch should be one of the 8(9) stitches that we left unworked. This connects the heel to the sock proper and counts as a stitch) Ch. 1 and turn.
R2 – 1 sc in each stitch (including the sl st) and down the other side of the heel. sl st to the next sock stitch. ch 1 and turn.
Repeat row 2 until you have worked all your sock stitches 8(9) on either side of the sock. You should end on a sl st ready to continue working squished sc from right to left. Work your squished sc on the front of the sock.

//

1 –Con el lado derecho de tu trabajo hacia tí, 1pb en cada pb (3), 12(14) pb bajando por el talón, pr en el siguiente punto (este debe ser uno de los 8(9) puntos de la media en los cuales no trabajamos.) Este pr conecta el talón a la media y cuenta como un punto.1ca y volteamos.
2 – 1 pb en cada pb (incluyendo el pr del principio) y 12 pb bajando por el talón. pr en el siguiente punto de la media. 1ca y volteamos.
3 – 1 pb en cada pb (incluyendo el pr del principio) . pr en el siguiente punto de la media. 1ca y volteamos.Repeat row 2 until you have worked all your sock Repetimos la fila 3 hasta que hayamos trabajado los 8(9) puntos de la media en cada lado. Terminaremos con un punto raso list@s para continuar trabajando pb aplastado en la parte del frente de la media.

crochet heel


Leg:
We will continue to work the established sock pattern while decreasing 1 stitch on either side of the heel.
R1 – sl st to first sc, sk sc, hdc in next, sl st in next stitch, hdc in next stitch repeat from to stop 2 stitches before the front of the sock. dec over these last 2 stitches, squished sc over the front.

R2 – hdc, hdc2tog, continue hdc over the back stitches stopping 2 stitches before the front of the sock. hdc2tog. squished sc over the front.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have decreased to 24(28) stitches for the back.
After you complete the decreases crochet two more rows in the established pattern [r1 moss stitch for the back and squished sc for the front. R2 hdc for the back and squished sc for the front.]

//

Continuaremos trabajando en el patrón establecido disminuyendo 1 punto en ambos lados del talón.We will continue to work the established sock pattern while decreasing 1 stitch on either side of the heel.
1 – pr al primer pb, saltamos un pb, pma en el siguiente punto, continuamos con punto musgo parando 2 puntos antes de los puntos aplastados. disminución sobre estos dos puntos. pb aplastado sobre los puntos restantes. sl st to first sc, sk sc, 2-pma, disminución en pma sobre los próximos 2 puntos, pma parando 2 puntos antes de los punto aplastados, disminución sobre estos 2 puntos. pb aplastado en los puntos restantes.

Repetimos las filas 1 y 2 hasta que hayamos disminuido a 24(28) puntos en la parte de atrás. Tejemos 2 filas más en el patrón establecido sin disminuciones (v1 punto musgo por la parte de atrás y pb aplastado a frendo, v2 pma en la parte de atrás y pb aplastado para el frente.


Cuff: // Borde de Caña
We will work 5 rounds of squished sc all around the sock. 24(28) squished sc total.
Slip stitch to the first stitch and ch, fasten off and weave in ends.

//

Trabajamos 5 vueltas de pb aplastado alrededor. Tendremos un total de 24(28) pb aplastados. pr en el primer pb aplastado. Cortamos hilo y rematamos.

endor moon crochet socks

And there you have it, Your completed Endor Moon Crochet Socks to celebrate a galaxy far far away. I would love to see what your star wars crochet socks look like!

// Ya hemos completado nuestra media inspirada por las películas de Star Wars. No se olvidén de tagearme si completan las medias, me encataría ver sus creaciones!

endor moon crochet socks

6 thoughts on “Endor Moon Crochet Socks

  1. Thank you for this great pattern! I have narrow heels so they’re not a perfect fit but I feel like the pattern is so good I’ll be able to try some adjustments. Really impressed 🤩

      1. Yeah I was thinking this exactly! Carry on with the length of the sock a bit further, and reduce the length of the rows around the back of the heel. Really pleased with them though, excited to make more. Thanks again 🙂

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