The tea leaves toe-up crochet socks are a simple sock pattern to add to your crochet sock repertoire.
Inspiration and Design
If you read the Crochet For Me Bundle, then the reason behind the design is old news. But, just in case you didn’t read the aforementioned post. Let’s re-fresh.
As the name of the bundle suggests, the idea was to share 56 designs that you would make for you. What would I make for me and not other people? A pair of crochet socks! I think that crochet socks are very personal. Perhaps this seems a bit far fetched to you, but in crochet if you don’t know your feet well, the socks are going no-where.
Seriously, my neighbor is still waiting for her socks. Honestly, at this point I have enlisted mom’s help and I’m stealing a never worn pair of socks from her.
Frustrating comments aside, I’m just the tiniest bit in love with the tea leaves toe up crochet socks. They are simple to make and the yarn really is the star of the show.
I have to admit that these socks got their name because of the watercolor look of this @acornwillows yarn. Yes, I still think the stitches look like tea leaves after soaking in water, but the colors although not my usual chartreuse green, are absolutely lovely.
The yarn is a high-twist bfl/nylon blend and it makes for a plump and comfortable sock. I’m very aware that not everybody can get this yarn, so just keep in mind a similar yardage when yarn hunting.
For these and other toe up crochet sock pattern I would recommend a lightly speckled or tonal yarn. The stitch definition would not shine with a highly variegated yarn.
Can I make these toe up crochet socks ?
While I would never want to discourage anyone from making anything, crochet socks require some experience. That is I do not recommend them for a very beginner. When we make crochet socks we often have to adjust here or there. For example, If your foot is long but narrow then you may want to follow instructions for the smallest size.
These toe up crochet socks are the perfect palette cleanser after a big project. All you need is 1 hank of fingering weight yarn and a cozy evening to get started.
Toe Up Crochet Socks – How to
- 80/20 sw merino/nylon high-twist fingering weight yarn. 400 yds in 100g. I used acornwillows yarn.
- 3mm hook or size needed for gauge
- yarn needle
- tape measure
Gauge – 6 stitches in 12 rows = 2″
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- sqsc – squished single crochet
- inc – increase
- sc/blo – single crochet back loop only
- sc2inc – 2sc in the same stitch
The sqsc is composed of a sc decrease and a ch1. Insert your hook into the stitch, pull up a loop, insert your hook into the following stitch, pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through 3 loops. Ch1.
inc in sqsc – *Insert your hook into the space where you have just completed a stitch, pull up a loop. Insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop. Yarn over pull through 3 loops. ch1* Repeat from *to* once more. Then continue working your sqsc by going into the ch1 space and pulling up a loop, then the stitch and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through 3 loops.
- Crochet socks don’t behave like knit socks. While the construction is similar their stretch is not the same. Crochet socks will stretch length wise, not width wise.
- These socks will look wider than your foot, once you crochet the heel the sock will tighten.
- In this pattern we will reference your desired sock length, this is different from your foot length.
- To get the desired sock length measure the length of your foot and subtract 1″.
- These are toe up crochet socks not cuff down.
Make a magic loop and ch1 to close.
R1 – Ch 1, 8 sc into the ring. Sl st to the first sc to join.
R2 – Ch 1, sc2inc around. Sl st to join 16 sc
R3 – Ch 1 , *sc2inc, sc* repeat from * to *. Slip stitch to join 24 sc
R4 and 5 – ch 1, 1 sc in every sc around. Sl st to join 24 sc
R6 – Ch 1 , *sc2inc, 2sc* repeat from * to * around. Sl st to join. 32 sc
R7 to 9 – Ch1, sc in each stitch. sl st to join. 32sc.
R10 – Ch 1, *sc2inc, 3sc* repeat from * to * around. Sl st to join. 40 sc.
R11 and 12 – 1 sc in every sc around. Sl st to join.
R13 – Ch 1 *sc2inc, 4 sc* repeat from * to * around. Sl st to join 48sc.
R14 – and 15 – 1 sc in every sc around. Sl st to join.
For size 2 only:
Round 16 – Ch 1 *sc2inc, 5sc* repeat from * to * around. Sl st to join 56 sc.
Round 17 – Ch 1, 1 sc in every sc around. Sl st to join.
For size 3 only:
For size 3 – Ch1, *sc2inc, 6sc* repeat from to around. sl st to join. 64sc
All sizes – Continue in sc around until your toe measures 2”.
R1 – work 24(28,32) sqsc. You should have a total of 24(28,32) stitches and 24(28,32) ch1. for a total of (48,56,64) stitches. sl st to join. Ch1 and turn.
R2- work sqsc around. sl st to join. Ch1 and turn.
Repeat round 2 until your sock measures 4” less than your desired sock length. Remember to turn at the end of each round.
R1- sqsc, inc, sqsc to 2 stitches before the 24(28,32) stitch (remember your ch1 counts as a stitch). Inc, and place marker. These increases will only happen at the back of the sock where our heel will be. Work your sqsc until you get to the first stitch. Sl sl to join. Ch1 and turn. We have increased 4 stitches.
R2- sqsc around. sl st to join. Ch1 and turn.
R3- sqsc, inc. sqsc to 2 stitches before the marker, inc. Place your marker again after the first inc. work sqsc until you reach your first stitch. Ch1 and turn
R4- repeat round 2
R5- repeat round 3
R6- repeat round 2. 60(68,76)
Heel Flap:worked over the back half
We are starting our heel, 3” before our desired sock length.
R1 – sc 30(34,38). Ch1 and turn.
R2 – sc in each sc leaving last stitch unworked. 29(33,37)
Repeat round 2, 13 more times. 16(20,24)
Wrong side facing, work 16(20,24)sc. Once you have completed these stitches, work a sc into the skipped sc from the row below, then sl st into the next sc from the row below. Ch1 and turn. 17(21,25) stitches.
Row2 – sc in every sc, then work a sc into the skipped sc from the row below. Sl st into the following sc. Ch1 and turn 18(22,26).
Row3- work 1 sc in every sc, then work 1sc into the slipped stitch. sl st into the next sc from the row below. Ch1 and turn.
Repeat row 3 until you have completed your heel stitches.
NOTES: Place stitch markers on your first and last heel stitch.
You should end on a right side row ready to begin your sqsc for the front part of the leg.
Complete these sqsc and sl st to join. Ch1 and turn.
R1 – sqsc around. sl st to join. Ch1 and turn
R2 – repeat row 1.
R3 – dec round. We will decrease where the sock front and heel meet. sqsc to marker, dec by skipping ch1 space. Continue working sqsc over stitch and ch1 space until you are 3 stitches away from the end of the round. skip stich and work your last sqsc over the ch1 and the stitch. We have decreased 2 stitches. Ch1 and turn
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have decreased to 48(56,60)
1 – With right side facing, Work 1sc in each stitch. Ch6
2 – Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work a sc in each ch. Sl st to the next 2 stitches from the leg. Ch1 and turn.
3- Working our way up, sc/blo. Ch1 and turn. (5sc)
4 – Working our way down, sc/blo, sl st into the next 2 stitches from the leg. Ch1 and turn
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you reach the last stitches on the leg. Sl st to these last 2 stitches.
Fold cuff so the right sides are facing and sl st to join in the round. Weave in ends and your sock is complete.