The Maia lace socks are a delicate eye-catching toe-up sock designed in celebration of spring.
Inspiration and Design
IDP Showcase call for lace crochet, oh and no garments
How can one show off lace crochet?
With a pair of socks of course! Before we get into the nitty-gritty of this design, I just want to say… I love them.
Now that I got that off my chest, we can move on. These socks were inspired by moss and a rose trellis. Am I the only one that can’t think of a rose trellis without picturing a romance novel scene?
Please tell me my brain isn’t the only one that works in mysterious ways…
Really, with this idea already brewing these socks pretty much designed themselves, especially because of the Yarn I chose.
Fellow crafters, you have heard me sing praises to Hawthorne fingering weight yarn before. Yes, it’s the yarn I used for the Eat Cake Sweater.
This time I chose Hawthorne Fingering Kettle Dyed, I wanted the uneven coloring to bring out the moss theme for the foot of the sock. I think the yarn managed that quite well.
Even though Hawthorne Fingering only has 357 yds to 100g it still worked well with a 3mm hook and I’m honestly already considering my second majestic pair.
gosh, it just shows off the stitches wonderfully.
Construction of the Maia Lace Socks
I think by now you many know that toe-up is the way I roll. The Maia lace socks are not the exception. But really, I just find toe up crochet socks so practical.
Maia, names the Greek nymph oftentimes associated with Spring. I can imagine an encounter with Maia, deep in the woods, near a creek, and in a pair of socks exactly like these.
Let’s make the Maia Lace Socks
- *1(1,1,2) hank of Hawthorne Fingering Weight Yarn, 80/20 Superwash Highland Wool/polyamide, 357yds in 100g
- *For size 4 you will need 115g
- 3mm hook or size needed for gauge
- tape measure
- yarn needle
Sample: made in size 2. Models desired sock length is 8.75. Shoe size between 7.5 and 8. Leftover yarn 20g.
- ext-sc: 21 sts x 20 rnds = 4×4” /10×10 (cm)
- sc: 13 sts x 13 rnds = 2×2”/5×5 (cm)
- Picot Trellis: 4 picots x 11 rnds = 4×4”/10×10(cm)
- Foot Circumference: 8.75(9.5, 10.25, 11)” / 22.2(24.1, 26, 27.9) cm
- Desired Sock length: 7.75(8.75,9.75,10.75)” / 19.7(22.2, 24.8,27.3) cm
- Leg Height (measured from rnd 1 of said section) : 6.25”
- Desired Sock length should be approximately 1” less than your actual foot length
- Sock is crocheted Toe-up.
- Hawthorne Fingering is a lofty yarn with a high-twist, keep this in mind if you intend to substitute yarns.
- Picot: sc, ch3, sc in same st
- Picot Trellis in the rnd requires a multiple of 5.
- sc: single crochet
- ch: chain
- sc2inc: work 2 sc in the same stitch.
- ext-sc: extended single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch. yarn over pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 1 loop, yarn over pull through remaining loops.
- Pm: place marker
- Rpm: replace marker
- Rnd: round
- beg: beginning
- Rem: remaining
To start: Ch 11.
1: 9 sc, 3 sc in last ch (PM in the second sc just made), turn clockwise to work in the back ridges of the ch’s, 8 sc, 2 sc in last ch (PM in the last sc made). (22)
2: Sc2inc, 8sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st, sc2inc, 8sc, sc2inc, sc. 26
3: Sc2inc, 10sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st, sc2inc, 10sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st. 30
5: Sc2inc, 12sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st, sc2inc, 12sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st. 34
7: Sc2inc, 14sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st, sc2inc, 14sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st. 38
9: Sc2inc, 16sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st, sc2inc, 16sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st. 42
11: Sc2inc, 18sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st, sc2inc, 18sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st. 46
Size 1 STOP here.
13: Sc2inc, 20sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st, sc2inc, 20sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st. 50
Size 2 STOP here
14: Sc2inc, 22sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st, sc2inc, 22 sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st. 54
Size 3 STOP here.
15: Sc2inc, 24sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st, sc2inc, 24 sc, sc2inc, sc in marked st. 58
Size 1. Sc until toe measures 2”
Keep markers in place and remember to move them up with every rnd. Work in continuous rnds.
Rnd 1: Ext-sc do not join. 46(50,54,58).
Repeat Rnd 1 until your sock measures 5.25(6.25, 7.25, 8.25) or 2.5” less than your desired sock length.
worked over 1/2 the sock stitches.
1 (rs): 23(25, 27, 29) sc, ch1 and turn.
2: Sc, leaving last st unworked, ch1 and turn 22(24,26,28)
3 – 14: rep row 2. 10(12,14,16)
- (rs): 10(12,14,16) sc, sc in sk st from row below, sl st in next sk st, pm, ch1 and turn.
- 11(13,15,17) sc, sc in sk st from row below, sl st in next sk st, pm, ch1 and turn.
- Sc to marker, sc in marked st, sl st in sk st (row below), pm, ch 1 and turn.
Repeat row 3 until a sc has been worked in every heel flap st. End on the left side of the sock (rs) ready for the top of the foot.
For sizes 1,3,4
Rnds 1 to 6 ext-sc. 46(—-, 54,58)
For size 2
Rnds 1 to 7: ext-sc. 50
Rnd 7: Ext-sc2dec, ext-sc in rem sts. 45
Rnd 7: Ext-sc2inc, ext-sc in rem sts. 55
Rnd 7: Ext-sc2inc, 29 ext-sc, Ext-sc2inc, ext-sc in rem sts. 60
Total count – 45(50,55,60)
All sizes: sl st to beg ext-sc, ch1
Rnd 8: Rnd 1: Sc, *ch5, sk 4, sc in next; rep from * to last 4 sts, ch 5, sk 4, sl st to sc.
Rnd 9: Ch 5, *picot in mid ch 5 space, ch5; rep from * until last picot has been made, ch2, sl st to 3rd ch of 5.
Rnd 10: Sc, *ch 5, picot in mid ch 5 space from row below; rep from * ending on a ch 5, sl st to beg sc.
Rnds 11 to 22: Rep rnds 9 & 10.
For a shorter leg, complete less repeats making sure that you end on a Rnd 10 rep.
Rnd 23: Ch 5, *sc in ch 5 space, ch5; rep from * to last ch5 sp, sc in rem ch5 space, ch2 sl st to3rd ch of beg ch.
Rnd 24: 40(50,45,55) sc.
Fasten off, cut yarn, weave in ends.