Welcome back to Las Nubes Top Part 2, In part 1 we went over some of the inspiration behind the Las Nubes crochet top and we worked up Rnd’s 1 to 12.
Las Nubes Top Part 2
In Las Nubes Top Part 2, I thought I would share more about the making of this top. As discussed in the very first Las Nubes post, I wanted to create a lacey and flowy top. Buried in the recesses of my mind there lives a girl that loves to frolic through fields. She also collects wildflowers and snacks her way through nature. She wanted to wear a flowy top.
Who am I to deny her wishes? With this Puertorican woodland sprite in mind, I started crocheting a pineapple motif top. Which led to the realization that I needed to work my top bottom up. Then, while working up the top, I realized that I didn’t want more than one pineapple motif.
As you can probably tell, Las Nubes Top Part 2 was a happy accident. Which, if I’m being honest, is a repeating label in anything I craft.
The Yarn:
Because I wanted the top to be as light as possible, I knew I had to choose a yarn to match. Originally, I had chosen a mohair blend yarn. As Shalimar Yarns seems to no longer be active, I went with a more affordable and trusty option Chroma Fingering.
Chroma fingering (*aff link) offers 396 yards of a wool/Nylon blend for all your fingering weight making needs. The yarn is single ply and comes in many fun color gradients. Other than bare, the color I used for Las Nubes Part 1 and Las Nubes Part 2, I really love Narwhal and Mermaid. They just scream summer to me. Looking for a moodier colorway? I recommend Wednesday.
Buuuuttt…
What if I want to use stash? While I can’t guarantee the yarn amounts, I can say that I have successfully crocheted the Las Nubes Part 2 with standard sock yarn. By standard I mean (75/25 Merino/Nylon). OF course, BE AWARE OF THE GAUGE. As a designer I feel like I can;t stress that enough. Seriously, I even crochet a swatch with you in the video tutorial.
If you don’t like working in parts, you can of course purchase the PDF for this top from Ravelry.
- written instructions for all sizes
- schematic
- picture guides
- link to the full Las Nubes crochet top tutorial
Now that I’ve warned you of future perils, let’s move on with crocheting the Las Nubes Part 2.
Las Nubes Top Part 2
For rounds 1 to 12 please visit part 1.
Let’s start!
switch to a 3.75 mm hook
Round 13
- For size 1: Ch2 (counts as the first hdc) , hdc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch ch1. 130 sts
- size 2: Ch2, hdc increase in the next. hdc in each stitch until you reach the other side of the garment. hdc increase in the next two stitches, hdc until you are 1 stitch away from the beginning of the round, hdc increase in last st, join with a slip stitch. 147 sts
- size 3: Ch2, hdc increase in the next. hdc in each stitch until you reach the other side of the garment. hdc increase in the next two stitches, hdc until you are 1 stitch away from the beginning of the round, hdc increase in last st, join with a slip stitch. 160 sts
- Size 4 – Ch2, hdc increase in the next 2 stitches. hdc in each stitch until you reach the other side of the garment. hdc increase in the next two stitches, hdc until you are 1 stitch away from the beginning of the round, hdc increase, join with a slip stitch.174 sts
Still round 13: Sizes 5 to 9
- size 5 – Ch2, hdc increase in the next 2 stitches. hdc in each stitch until you reach the other side of the garment. hdc increase in the next two stitches, hdc until you are 1 stitch away from the beginning of the round, hdc increase, join with a slip stitch. 187 sts
- For size 6 – Ch2, hdc increase in the next 2 stitches. hdc in each stitch until you reach the other side of the garment. hdc increase in the next two stitches, hdc until you are 1 stitch away from the beginning of the round, hdc increase, join with a slip stitch. 200 sts
- Size 7 – Ch2, hdc increase in the next. hdc in each stitch until you reach the other side of the garment. hdc increase in the next two stitches, hdc until you are 1 stitch away from the beginning of the round, hdc increase in last st, join with a slip stitch. 212 sts
- Size 8 – Ch2, hdc increase in the next. hdc in each stitch until you reach the other side of the garment. hdc increase in the next two stitches, hdc until you are 1 stitch away from the beginning of the round, hdc increase in last st, join with a slip stitch. 238 sts
- Size 9 – Ch2, hdc increase in the next. hdc in each stitch until you reach the other side of the garment. hdc increase in the next two stitches, hdc until you are 1 stitch away from the beginning of the round, hdc increase in last st, join with a slip stitch. 251 sts
Round 14 –
Ch1, 1 ext-sc in the same stitch, 1 ex-sc in each stitch around. Slip stitch to the first stitch to join. 130 (147, 160, 174) 187(200, 212, 238, 251)
Round 15
- For size 1- Ch1, 1ex sc, invisible ext sc2tog twice. 1 ext-sc in each stitch until you have reached the next side of the garment.invisible ext- sc2tog 3 times. 1 ext-sc stitch in each stitch around, stopping 2 stitches before the end of the round, ext-sc invisible decrease over these last 2 stitches. slip stitch to the first extended sc to join. A total of 6 stitches have been decreased for a total of 124.
- size 2 – Ch1, 1 ext-sc in the first stitch, invisible ext-sc increase in the next stitch. 1 ext-sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to first stitch. 148
- size 3 – Ch1, 1 ext-sc in the first stitch, invisible ext-sc increase in the next stitch. 1 ext-sc in each stitch until you reach the next side. invisible ext-sc increase in next two stitches. 1 ext-sc in each stitch stopping 1 stitch before the end of the round. Invisible ext-sc increase in next stitch. Slip stitch to join. 164.
- size 4 – Ch1, 1 ext-sc in the first stitch, invisible ext-sc increase in the next 2 stitches. 1 ext-sc in each stitch until you reach the next side. invisible ext-sc increase in next 3 stitches. 1 ext-sc in each stitch stopping 1 stitch before the end of the round. Invisible ext-sc increase in next stitch. Slip stitch to join. 180.
Round 15 sizes 5 to 9
- size 5 and 6 – Ch1, ext-sc increase in the next 2 stitches. ext-sc in each stitch until you reach the other side of the garment. ext-sc increase in the next 2 stitches, ext-sc until you are 1 stitch away from the beginning of the round, ext-sc increase, join with a slip stitch. 192 (205)
- size 7 – Ch1, 1 ext-sc in the first stitch, invisible ext-sc increase in the next stitch. 1 ext-sc in each stitch until you reach the next side. invisible ext-sc increase in next 2 stitches. 1 ext-sc in each stitch stopping 1 stitch before the end of the round. Invisible ext-sc increase in next stitch. Slip stitch to join. 216
- size 8 – Ch1, ext-sc in each st, sl st to join 238.
- size 9 – Ch1, 1 ext-sc in the first stitch, invisible ext-sc increase in the next stitch. 1 ext-sc in each stitch until you reach the next side. invisible ext-sc increase in next two stitches. 1 ext-sc in each stitch stopping 1 stitch before the end of the round. Invisible ext-sc increase in next stitch. Slip stitch to join. 255.
Round16
- Sizes 1 5, 8, and 9: ch1, ext-sc in each st, Slip stitch to join.
- Size 6 and 7: Ch1, 1 ext-sc in the first stitch, invisible ext-sc increase in the next stitch. 1 ext-sc in each stitch until you reach the next side. invisible ext-sc increase in next two stitches. 1 ext-sc in each stitch stopping 1 stitch before the end of the round. Invisible ext-sc increase in next stitch. Slip stitch to join. 209(220).
Rnds 17 to 19: All sizes, Ch1, ext-sc in each stitch, sl st to join.
SWITCH TO 3.5MM HOOK
Continue working 1 ext-sc in each stitch and joining with a slip stitch until you reach round 40. (If you made your shirt longer, your round count will be different.)
Once we’ve completed the 40 rounds, part 2 is complete. Next, we will tackle the sleeves and the reverse raglan.
