In part 2 of the granny crew sweater we will be separating our yoke into sleeve and body sections.
To recap, we should have already crocheted our yoke to our desired armhole depth. Mine was 9” after blocking. I achieved these 9” by completing 17 rounds for the yoke. If you have reached the 9” mark but the sweater is still not wide enough at the bust/chest area, don’t panic. In order to achieve width there are 3 things you can do:
- Continue adding to the yoke bearing in mind that this not only adds width to the bust but to the armhole area as well.
- Split for the sleeves now and then continue increasing in the next several rounds.
- Split for the sleeves now and add more chains than written to enlarge the body, bear in mind that by doing so you are also adding stitches to the armhole. However, these can be decreased on the first sleeve round.
After completing our yoke, we should have a rectangle shape with a slight v neckline.
Now, we are going to join at our corners and that will separate the sleeves from the body, kind of like this.
Granny Crew Sweater Part 2
If you would like to review, gauge, sizing and abbreviations please refer back to the first part of the granny crew sweater.
Before we move on to our sleeve separation round make sure that your last round was a granny stitch round and that you’ve picked up your contrasting color.
Sleeve Separation
Now
[sc between the granny st, ch2] until you reach the marked space
- If you need more sts around the bust then make a scV in this marked space
- If you do not need extra sts then just make a sc
Then, ch2, sk all sts until you reach the next marked space,
- If you need more sts around the bust then make a scV in this marked space as well
- If you do not need extra sts then just make a sc
After joining our back of the yoke to our front, we are going to continue our pattern by chaining 2, [sc between the granny st, ch2] until you reach the next marked space, refer to previous bullet point. Once you’ve completed either a sc or a scV, ch2, sk all sts until you reach the next marked space, again make either a sc or a scV, ch2, [sc between the granny st, ch2] until you work the last sc before the beg st, ch2, sl st to the first st to join the round, switch to your MC
Just like that we have gone from our rectangular yoke to separate “circles” for the body and the sleeves.
Body
Here we are simply going to continue our granny block stitch pattern, no increases unless you need them,
Round 1 (MC) : Working into the ch2 space to the right of our sl st, make a stacked sc, *granny st in each ch space, until you reach the underarm, work 2dc in the first ch, 1dc in the next, (this will count as a granny st); rep from *once more, granny st in each space until you reach the beginning space, into this space work 2dc, sl st to the first st to join the round, switch to your CC.
NOTE:
- Yes, we are working in each ch 2 space including the ch2 of the v stitch.
- If you need more increases you can work a granny st increase in the ch2 at the underarm
Round2 (CC): [sc between the granny sts, ch2] repeat until you have worked the last sc between the granny sts, ch2, sl st to the first st to join the round, switch to your MC
Round3 (MC): Working into the ch2 space to the right of our sl st, make a stacked sc, granny st in each ch space until you reach the beginning space, into this space work 2dc, sl st to the first st to join the round, switch to your CC.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until you reach your desired length.
For the sample I worked a total of 22 rounds for the body. These are counted from the sc,ch2 round that we used to split the sleeves. Measured from that underarm to the last round the body measures 8” which puts out total garment length at 16.75”
Take a moment to rest before we pick this up next week to crochet our sleeves. This is also a great moment to try on your garment again and determine if you like the fit.
Next week we will work together on the sleeves! If you find yourself crocheting this top, please share your creations with the crochetcakes community on Youtube or tag me on instagram (@crochetcakes) so that I can share your work to my stories.
