Before we say goodbye to summer, let’s crochet the it’s a hoot tee. A lightweight crochet tee using fingering weight yarn and a 4.5mm crochet hook.
Inspiration & Design
The las nubes top is one of my most popular designs. At the moment of writing this, there are 96 sales on Ravelry! EEP. I had no intention of revisiting this pattern after 2023. However, as I was stitching away on the failed sunshine glow top, a little thought snuck its way into my brain. What if we use the owl motif from the las nubes top but make a looser summer tee. We could even name it “it’s a hoot tee”!
Yarn for the it’s a hoot tee
I’m of the opinion that when summer is in full swing, fingering weight wool may still be used. This decision may require some negotiation with our beaming star of fury. During intense negotiations I have found that fingering weight merino is allowable. Luckily, Merino is an easy to find fiber.
About a year or two ago I bought some Chroma yarn in the color Sand Piper on a wecrochet sale. While I’m not crazy about the transitioning nature of chroma, I absolutely love the feel of and the stitch definition you get with a single ply yarn.
Can I make this?
I always say, Yes, you can.
Anything that you find confusing about crochet or the sts, you will most likely be able to find an explanation for it on ye old internet. The hoot tee is a simple tee worked bottom up in two panels with a T shaped design. Techniques used:
- Increasing
- Decreasing
- Working in rows
- Seaming
- Owl stitch border tutorial, just don’t join in the round. for this top
Full Description of it’s a hoot tee
A light weight loose fitting tee with an owl motif border design. Perfect for wearing between summer and fall.
It’s a hoot tee / summer tee
Skill Level
Advanced beginner
Materials
Materials
- 200 (200, 275, 325) g of chroma fingering
- Total yardage – 792( 792, 1089, 1287)
- 4.5mm tulip crochet hook, 4mm to crochet the foundation sc
- Yarn needle, scissors, tape measure, stitch markers (at least 4)
Gauge
worked with the 4.5mm crochet hook measured over 4”
Pattern for the gauge swatch is 1 row of linked dc followed by 1 row of dc sts
| row | 9 |
| sts | 18 |
Finished Size
| Size | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 |
| Bust | 29 | 37 | 48 | 56.5 |
| Length front panel | 16 | 16 | 16 | 16 |
| length back panel | 17.25 | 17.25 | 17.25 | 17.25 |
| Low waist | 33.25 | 20 | 53.5 | 66.5 |
Abbreviations – Us terms
- Ch – chain
- Fsc – foundation single crochet
- Sc – single crochet
- Dc – double crochet
- Ldc2inc – linked double crochet increase (work 2 linked dc in the same stitch)
- Tr – treble
- Ldc – linked double crochet – make a double crochet, insert your hook into the vertical bar of the dc just made, YO and pull up a loop, proceed to next st and make a dc as normal.
Special Sts
The it’s a hoot tee border is crocheted using the Pineapple stitch. For this stitch we need multiples of 15.
Notes
- ch 1 at the beg of the row doesn’t count as a st
- The hoot tee is worked bottom up
- I like to work a stacked single crochet for the very first st of the row.
- Linked double crochet sts represent the right side of our work.
- Instruction written for smallest size first followed by the other 3 sizes – 1 (2, 3, 4)
Let’s start the it’s a hoot tee / crochet tee
We are working flat in rows.
For the pineapple stitch we are skipping the ch 2 spaces unless otherwise indicated
To start – Using your 4mm crochet hook Foundation sc
| Size | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 |
| foundation sc | 75 | 90 | 120 | 150 |
Owl border Rows 1 to 4
- Stacked sc (or ch3), dc in the next 2 sts *Ch 2, skip 4 sc and make 7 tr into the next sc, Ch 2 skip 4 sc, 1 dc into the next 6 sc; rep from *, until 12 sts are left, ch2, skip 4, 7tr in the next st, ch2, sk 4, dc in the last 3 sts, ch1 and turn.
2. Stacked sc, dc into the next dc, *Ch 2, [dc, ch2] in the next 6trb’s, dc, ch2, ( 7 dc and 6 ch 2 spaces), skip ch 2 space and dc, dc into the next 4 dc ( we have skipped a total of 2 dc on this repeat); Repeat from *, ending with ch2, skip 1 dc and 1 dc in the last 2 dc, ch1 and turn.
3. stacked sc , *Ch2 ( total of 5 ch) Work **[sc,ch3] into the next 5 ch spaces from the round below, 1 sc in the last fan ch space ( total of 6 sc and 5 ch 3 spaces). Ch2, Skip ch space and next dc.** Work 1 dc into the next 2 dc, (skip the next dc) ; Repeat from * until you have 1 fan left, complete ** [ ] ** instructions, 1 dc into the last st, ch 1 and turn.
4. Stacked sc, *Ch2 (total of 5 chains) Skip ch 2 space and 1 sc. Working into each ch 3 space from the row below work [sc, ch 3] (total of 5 sc and 4 ch3 spaces) ch 2, skip ch 2 space, work 1 dc into the next 2 dc; Rep from *, ending the row with 1 dc in the last dc, ch1 and turn
Owl border rows 5 to 9
5. Stacked sc, 1 dc into the same stitch as the ch 3. Ch2 (skip ch space and sc), *Working in the ch3 spaces **[sc, ch3] three times, sc in last ch3 space (total of 4 sc and 3 ch3 spaces) Ch 2**, work dc2inc in the next 2 sts ; Repeat from * until one fan remains; repeat **[ ]** *ending the row with dc2inc in last dc, ch1 and turn.
6. Stacked sc, dc2inc in next dc. *Ch 2, working in the ch 3 spaces **[sc, ch3] twice, sc in last ch3 space(total of 3 sc and 2 ch3 spaces) Ch2, dc2inc in next st **, 1 dc in the next 2, dc2inc (6 dc total); Repeat from * until 1 fan remains, repeat ** ** ending with 1 dc in the last dc,ch1 and turn
7. Stacked sc, 1 dc in the next dc, dc2inc in the last dc of group, *Ch2, Working in ch3 space **[sc, ch3], sc in last ch3 space (total of 2 sc and 1 ch 3 space) Ch 2**, dc2inc, 1 dc into the next 4, dc2inc in last dc (8 dc total); Repeat from * until 1 fan remains, repeat ** ** ending the row dc2inc in the next dc and 1 dc in the last 2 dc, ch1 and turn.
8. Stacked sc, 1 dc into the next 2 dc, dc2inc in the last dc of group, *Ch2, sc into the ch 3 space, Ch2, dc2inc in the next dc, 1 dc into the next 6 dc, dc2inc last dc of group (10 dc total); Repeat from * until last ch3 space, sc, ch2, dc2inc in next dc, 1dc into the next 3, ch1 and turn.
9: Stacked sc, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, dc2inc in the last dc. *Ch2, dc2inc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 8 dc, dc2inc in last dc of group.* Repeat from * until 1 pineapple is left, ch2, dc2inc, 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc, ch1 and turn.
Owl beak and eyes
10. – Stacked sc, 1 dc in the next 2 dc, *Ch2, 7 tr into the ch 2 space, Ch2. skip 4 dc, dc2inc in the next dc, 1 dc into the next 2 dc, dc2inc in the next dc, skip 4 dc (6 dc total); Repeat from * to last ch2 space, 7 tr in the ch2 space, ch2, skip 4 ending round with dc2inc, dc in last st, Slip stitch to the top of the Ch 3 to join.
11. (WS) – Stacked sc, 1dc in each stitch (we will be skipping the ch spaces), ch1 and turn.
| Size | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 |
| St count | 65 | 78 | 104 | 130 |
Body Rows
12 (RS): Dc in the first st, Ldc2inc in the next st, Ldc until you have 2 sts left, Ldc2inc in the next st, Ldc in the last, ch1 and turn.
| Size | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 |
| St count | 67 | 80 | 106 | 132 |
13: Dc in each st, ch1 and turn.
14: Dc in the first st, Ldc to the end of the row, ch1 and turn.
Rows 15 to 18: repeat rows 13 and 14.
19: repeat row 13
Increase section
20: Dc in the first st, Ldc2inc in the next st, Ldc until you have 2 sts left, Ldc2inc in the next st, Ldc in the last, ch1 and turn.
21: Dc in each st, ch1 and turn.
22 to 31: repeat rows 20 and 21. **
Next, complete 1 more pattern repeat without increasing.
Neckline Shaping
Before moving on to row 34, fold your garment in ½ lengthwise (the shoulder ends should be meeting). Place a stitch marker in this middle stitch. Unfold your garment and measure 3” from the marker on either side PM in these sts. I had 15 sts on either side of the middle marker. These sts will form the bottom of our neckline.
In the above picture you can see how I divided the stitches for the neckline. For visual help minute 19:10 on the vlog. Now we can continue with row 34.
34: Dc, LDC up to and including the marker, ch1 and turn.
Row 35 sk the first st, dc in each rem st of the row, ch1 and turn.
Row 36: Dc, LDC to the end of the row, ch1 and turn.
Rows 37 and 38: repeat rows 35 and 36, cut yarn and fasten off.
Remaining shoulder
We will mirror the above instructions. Attach yarn to the marker on the left of the middle marker,
- Dc, Ldc to the end of the row, ch1 and turn.
- dc until 2 its remain, sk1, dc in last st, ch1 and turn.
- Repeat the above instruction once more. You will have a total of 4 rows, ch1 and turn.
- Dc, Ldc to the end of the row, cut yarn and fasten off.
After completing the shoulder shaping I recommend blocking your panel. While your front panel dries, let’s work on the back panel.
Back Panel of the It’s a hoot tee
Repeat instructions for the front panel until ( ** )
Continue working in pattern until you complete 40 rows. Don’t cut your yarn. Move on to blocking both of your panels, leaving the yarn attached to the back panel.
Seaming
Once both your panels are dry, lay “right” sides together. Pin your shoulder sts. Using the yarn attached to the back panel, sc join your shoulder, once you have joined the shoulder, sc on the back panel until you reach the next marker, seam your remaining shoulder, cut yarn and fasten off.
From the shoulder measure 7.5 to 8”, this will be our armhole opening, PM to denote your stopping point.
Next, Attach yarn to the bottom of the it’s a hoot tee and sc join until you reach the side marker. Repeat these instructions for the remaining side.
Turn your tee right side out and try on your top! Are you are happy with the fit? All you have left to do is, weave in your ends and cut the excess tails.
