Vintage Waves is an easy crochet sock pattern designed to use the self striping yarn you have been hoarding in your stash. Read about the process and inspiration below or scroll down for the free self striping crochet socks pattern.
It’s already August! You know what this means? We are one month closer to fall, wooly garments and all things pumpkin! Well, at least those of us in the northern hemisphere and not living in the tropics. I guess this excludes me from these fall celebrations, but I will still look forward to the one week a year that it’s cold in Florida.
In celebration of these colder months, sorry Australia, you already had your shot, I decided to crochet some socks for the second time this year. These aren’t just any socks, oh no. These socks are super socks! These socks are self-striping crochet socks. No, your eyes do not deceive you, this pattern is designed to use your self stiping yarn to crochet socks! They are made with Deep Stash from Littlebeanloves Yarn, a self stripping hank of Narcissa Malfoy. I was so in love with the idea of making self striping crochet socks that I even enginered a toe for them! I’m calling it my U-toe.
I had originally intended to use this yarn to knit a pair of socks for the SRCAL2019, but we all know that I am a slow knitter and I wanted to actually have a finished object for this years CAL so I decided on a pair of self striping crochet socks. If you are curious about the Summer Romance CAL, feel free to head over to my Ravelry page and read all about it.
Back to the pattern, I knew I wanted to use the extended sc stitch for the foot and back of the sock but I wanted to incorporate a simple and elegant stitch as well, voilá the Vintage Waves crochet sock pattern was born. Of course, you will only get the wave effect if you are using self-striping yarn with long color repeats, each section of mine was 120″ in length. If you do not have self striping yarn with the same length, you can switch yarns every row to get your self striping crochet sock. I have also made this sock pattern using mani pedi yarn, post here. Because of the long color repeats, using the many pedi yarn did not result in a self striping crochet sock but it’s still very pretty.
There are just so many yarn options and it is always fun to try them all and see how each one portrays the pattern. The waves are produced using a sc,ch2,sc stitch pattern that I found in a Vintage stitch dictionary.
Can I say, these are the first pair of crochet socks that fit me perfectly and it is all because I stopped second-guessing my measurements. If you own any crochet sock books they all go into explaining why crochet socks are so finicky. It all comes down to knowing your foot measurement and your gauge. For example, I have a very loose gauge when crocheting with fingering weight yarns, so I use a 3mm hook. My total foot length from toe to heel is 9.75″, but keeping in mind that crochet stretches lengthwise not width-wise, I crochet my sock up to 6″ or as close as I can get to the 6″ mark before starting the heel. The stitch used in a pattern can also influence how stretchy the sock will be.
If you are interested in the differences between crochet socks and knit socks then read at Mindandmusecraft post from october 2018.
Inexpensive Printable PDF – here
Self Striping Crochet Socks – VINTAGE WAVES PATTERN
100 g of self striping fingering weight yarn (Used – Littlebeanloves 75/25 SW Merino and Nylon)
30 g of contrasting yarn for the toe, heel, cuff (optional)
3mm crochet hook
The sock is crocheted toe up.
sc wave stitch – *sc, ch2, sc* in the same space
extended sc – Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 1 loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops.
Gauge – (super important in crochet socks!) 23 ext-sc stitches in 4″ and 20 rows in 4″
***If you do not have gauge you can make the sock basing it on your own measurements but be aware that you will have to adjust accordingly.
Crochet socks will seem loose until you complete your heel, the heel tightens the sock, if you make your sock too small, it will pull along the instep (the widest part of the foot.)
Small (48 stitches) Medium – Large (56 stitches)
Make a magic loop and ch 1 to close
Rnd1 – Ch 1 , 8 sc into the ring. Slip stitch to the first sc to join.
Rnd2 – Ch 1, sc2inc around. Slip stitch to join 16 sc
Rnd3 – Ch 1 , *sc2inc, sc* repeat from * to *. Slip stitch to join 24 sc
Rnds 4 and 5 – ch 1, 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join 24 sc
Round 6 – Ch 1 , *sc2inc, 2sc* repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join. 32 sc
Round 7 to 9 – Ch 1, 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join. 32sc
Round 10- Ch 1, *sc2inc, 3sc* repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join. 40 sc.
Round 11 and 12 – 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join.
Round 13 – Ch 1 *sc2inc, 4 sc* repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join 48sc.
Round 14 and 15 – 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join.
for size Medium :
Round 16 – Ch 1 *sc2inc, 5sc* repeat from * to * around. Slip stitch to join 56 sc.
Round 17 – Ch 1, 1 sc in every sc around. Slip stitch to join.
Foot (Pie) :
We will now begin working in a spiral (no joining).
Rnd1: 1 extended sc place marker, 1 extended sc in each of the next 22 (26) extended sc for the bottom of the foot. In the 24 (28) stitch make *sc, ch2, sc in 1 stitch. skip 1* Repeat until you reach the marker.
Rnd2 to 21 : 23 (27) extended sc for the bottom, *sc, ch2, sc* in each ch 2 space from the previous row for the top.
*remember your measurements, with the 2 following rows I had reached 3″ less than my total foot length. If you need extra rows add them in now.
Round 22 – 2 extended sc in the first stitch, 21 extended sc, 2 extended sc in the last stitch, we have increased our bottom stitch count by 2. (25 extended sc [size m 29]) *sc, ch2, sc* in each ch 2 space from the row below for the front.
Round 23 – 25(29) extended sc for the bottom, *sc, ch2, sc* in each ch 2 space from the row below for the top.
Change to contrasting color (optional)
Rndd 1 : 1 sc in every extended sc from the row below. Ch 1 and turn. 25 (29)
Rnd2 : sc in each stitch across, leaving the last stitch unworked. We have decreased 1. 24(28)
Repeat round 2 until you have 11 (13) stitches remaining. You should be on the right side of the work.
Row 1 – Ch1 and turn. Work 1 sc in every sc, then work 1 sc into the skipped sc from the row below, then slip stitch into the next sc from the next row below (place stitch marker). Ch1 and turn. 12(14)
Row 2 – work 1 sc in every sc, then work 1 sc into the sc from the row below, slip stitch into the next sc from the row below (place stitch marker). Ch1 and turn 13(15)
Row 3 – work 1 sc in every sc, then work 1 sc into the sc we had last sliped stitched into. Slip stitch into the sc from the row below (place stitch marker). Ch1 and turn 14(15)
Repeat row 3 until you have used up all your heel stitches and your last slip stitch has been worked into the inseam stitch (side stitch at the beg of the round). Total of 24 (28) heel stitches.
After finishing the heel you should have a total stitch count of 50 (58). We will continue working in the established pattern *sc ch2, sc*in the each ch2 space from the row below for the front, when you reach the next inseam stitch sc2tog, 1 extended sc in each of the next 21 stitches for the back.
Continue working *sc, ch2, sc* in each ch2 space and 1 extended sc in every extended sc until the leg measures 1.5″
Once the leg measure 1.5″ decrease 1 stitch on each inseam side 46(54).
Continue working in the established pattern until the leg measures a total of 3″. For me that was 16 rounds.
Change to contrasting color and cut main yarn.
Ch 1: Work 1 sc in every extended sc, 1 sc in the first wave stitch, 2 sc in each wave stitch. Slip stitch to the first sc and Ch8. Turn
Row 1 – Work 1 sc in the first ch from the hook, work 1 sc in each remaining chain. (7) slip stitch into the next 2 sc. Ch1 and turn.
Row 2 -working in the back loops only 1 sc in every sc. Ch1 and turn.
Row 3 – working in the back loops only , 1 sc in every sc. Slip stitch in the next 2 sc. Ch1 and turn.
REpeat rows 2 and 3 around the leg ending on a round 3.
Fold cuff with right sides facing and slip stitch to join each sc. Cut yarn leaving a 4″ tail to weave in ends.
And there you go! You have completed the Vintage Waves sock pattern! Wear your self striping crochet socks with pride but Beware! It can be addictive, I mean seriously addictive to crochet socks!
Wear with whatever shoes you wear socks with!
If you make the pattern please tag me @crochetcakes or use the #crochetcakespodcast .
8 thoughts on “Self Striping Crochet Socks – Vintage Waves”
This is the first crochet sock pattern I will attempt to make. They look beautiful. Well done!!
Oh my! Thank you so much for the compliment! If you have any questions feel free to message me!
For the gauge do you mean 23 ext sc or with the wave stitch too?
Hello! Yes, I mean the 23 ext sc.
Sorry! I have another question. When you start the first round of the foot part how many ch2 spaces are you supposed to have? I feel like I’m getting an extra stitch or is stitch 48 supposed to end with a sc-ch2-sc or a skip one?
Don’t apologize! I’m here to help! For the 48 stitch count you will have 13 ch spaces and end with sc,ch2,sc.