This crochet bobble stitch top couldn’t be easier. The crochet top is made in two pieces with a bottom up construction and contains minimal neck and sleeve shaping. In this tutorial I walk you through the whole process of making Bobble in Time crochet top.

crochet bobble stitch top

Hello again!

How have you guys been? I have been busy looking up camera’s, desktops, and other equipment I would like to acquire to take my podcast and photos to the next level. I really want to be able to take high-quality photos so you can better appreciate the details in my patterns. If you have ever bought one of my patterns, this is what I use the money for, well that and buying more yarn to make patterns :D. Bet you knew that though!

Speaking of patterns, being monogamous while designing is the best thing I could have done. Seriously, I feel so much more efficient and I get the patterns out in a timely manner. No stress, just plain enjoyment. And I have to say, I really enjoyed making this crochet bobble stitch top. My favorite part of designing this top was the cap sleeves, the crochet bobble stitch just gives the sleeves and extra level of cuteness.

The Bobble in Time top is crocheted in pieces and then seamed together, I know, this sounds like really hard work, but I prefer the fit of the sleeves when I crochet a garment in pieces. How about you? Bonus tip, if you leave your ends long enough, you can use them to sew your garment together without needing to re-attach your yarn, fun, fast and easy.

My version of the pattern uses two colors, a main (La Brebis Marled Sock) and a contrasting (a vibrant green from LittleBeanLoves Yarn. )You can, of course, choose just one color but the pops of color really bring out the bobble stitch detail in the top.

Speaking of the yarn, if you have tuned in to my podcast previously – (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsdloZWzOnw&feature=youtu.be) You will recognize this yarn as the yarn I had balled up to crochet the aster top. Needless to say, I frogged it. When a pattern is designed for cotton yarn substituting for wool requires more math than I took into account.

I was set on using both the green and the marled yarn together ever since I saw Sandra of cherryheart make a pair of socks using this combination. They are just so spicy, aren’t they?! They send my heart fluttering and I was anxious to create something with the same colors.

crochet top

A Bobble it time was born out of my need to create a simple blouse with striking yarn. I do love the pops of green with the black. Don’t you?

Pattern Notes:

The blouse is shown in size small. For reference, the model is 5”7, with a true bust measurement of 33” and a 28” waist. The length of the top is 19″ and the width is 34″. The pattern can easily be adjusted for fit and length by changing the makeup of the yarn or simply making the top longer.

If you are making this blouse with wool yarn, you can make it into a looser fitting garment by simply blocking a bit aggressively. For the size small I had 72g leftover of the main color and 50 g leftover of the contrasting color. You may have more leftover of your contrasting because I started with a little less than 100g.

Experience Level : Advanced Beginner
For this pattern, you will need to know how to make the bobble stitch, how to make a sc and dc stitch.

The pattern is basically 2 rectangles with some neck shaping. The sleeves are crocheted separately and then are added to the blouse.

Bobble – Yarn over, insert your hook and pull up a loop. Yarn over pull through 2. Repeat this 4 times, you will have 6 loops in the hook, yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.

To join the sleeves and the shoulders, I used a sc stitch, to join the body I used a whip stitch join.

Gauge: After Blocking

Bobble stitch – 3 bobble rows 1.5″ and 8 bobble stitches in 4″.

DC – 9 rows 20 dc in 4″

Materials:

2 hanks of fingering weight wool yarn in your main color. I used La Brebis marked sock.

1 hank of fingering weight wool yarn in a contrasting color. I used a color dyed by Kayleen, LittlebeanLoves Yarn.

3.75mm crochet hook

3.25mm crochet hook.

darning needle

Tape measure

Scissors

Crochet Bobble In Time Top

Instructions

Front Panel:

Using your contrasting yarn and a 3.75mm hook.

Ch 74 (78,82)

Row 1 : starting in the second ch from the hook, sc across. Ch 3 and turn.
Row 2 : Bobble in first stitch, sc in the next. Repeat across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3 : 1sc in every sc across. Ch3 and turn
Rows 4 to 7: Repeat rows 2 and 3.

For Row 7 switch to your main color yarn and work row 3 as already established. Ch 2 and turn.

***Switch to your 3.25mm hook***

Row 8: 1 dc in every stitch. Ch2 and turn.

Repeat row 8 until you have reached 11 inc (12, 12.5) Ch1 and turn.

Armhole Shaping:

Row 1: 1 slip stitch in the first 6(6,6) Ch2, skip 1 dc. Work 1 dc in every dc, leaving 7 (7,7) stitches unworked. Skip 1, 1 dc in next stitch. Ch2 and turn

Row 2: (Remember ch counts as your first dc) Skip 1 dc, dc to last 2 stitches, skip 1 dc, dc to the top of the ch. Ch2 and turn

Row 3: Repeat row 2.

Row 4: 1 dc in every dc. Ch2 and turn.

Continue working 1dc in every dc until your work measure 16 (16.5, 17) inch Ch2 and turn.

Neck Shaping:

Row 1: 1dc in next 16(17,18) dc, skip 1, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 16(25,26) stitches, sc2tog, skip 1, 1dc in next 16(17,18)dc.

Row 2: (we will only be working in the 16(17,18) stitches that form the shoulder strap.) Ch2, 1dc in each stitch leaving last 2 dc unworked, skip 1dc , dc into the remaining stitch. Ch2 turn

Row 3: Skip next dc, 1 dc in every dc. Ch2 turn.

Row 4: 1 dc in every dc across, leaving last 2 unworked, skip 1 dc, dc on top of the ch 2. Ch2 turn.

Row 5: Skip first dc, 1 dc in every dc. Ch2 and turn

Row 6: 1 dc in every dc across. Fasten off.

Rejoin yarn to the other side of the neck, 16(17,18)stitches from the shoulder edge.

Row 1: Ch2 (remember this counts as the first dc) skip 1 dc, 1 dc in every dc to the end of row. Ch2 and turn.
Row 2: 1 dc in every dc, leaving the last 2 dc unworked. Skip 1 and 1 dc on top of the turning chain. Ch2 and turn
Row 3: skip 1 dc, 1 dc in every dc to the end of the row.
Row 4: 1 dc in every dc across, leaving last 2 unworked, skip 1 dc, dc on top of the ch 2. Ch2 turn.

Row 5: 1 dc in every dc across.

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Wet Blocking a crochet top

Back Panel:

Using your contrasting yarn and a 3.75mm hook.

Ch 74 (78,82)

Row 1 : starting in the second ch from the hook, sc across. Ch 3 and turn.
Row 2 : Bobble in first stitch, sc in the next. Repeat across. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3 : 1sc in every sc across. Ch3 and turn
Rows 4 to 7: Repeat rows 2 and 3.

For Row 7 switch to your main color yarn and work as established. Ch 2 and turn.

***Switch to your 3.25mm hook***

Row 8: 1 dc in every sc. Ch2 and turn.
Row 9: 1 dc in every dc. Ch2 and turn.
Repeat row 9 until you have reached 11 inc (12, 12.5) Ch1 and turn.

Armhole Shaping:

Row 1: 1 slip stitch in the first 6(6,6) Ch2, skip 1 dc. Work 1 dc in every dc, leaving 7 (7,7) stitches unworked. Skip 1, 1 dc in next stitch. Ch2 and turn

Row 2: (Remember ch counts as your first dc) Skip 1 dc, dc to last 2 stitches, skip 1 dc, dc to the top of the ch. Ch2 and turn

Row 3: Repeat row 2.

Row 4: 1 dc in every dc. Ch2 and turn.

Continue working 1dc in every dc until you have completed a total of 46 (46, 47) rows Ch2 and turn.

Skip first dc after the ch 3, 1 dc in the next 12 (12,13) dc. Fasten off

Right side facing, join yarn 13(13,14) stitches away from the edge of the row. Ch2, 1 dc in the remaining dc.

IMG_3118

Sleeves (make 2)

Using a 3.25mm crochet hook ch 51 (53, 54).

Row 1: 1 sc in the second ch from the hook and every ch across. Ch3 and turn
Row 2: Bobble in first stitch where the ch is coming out of, sc in next. *Bobble in next sc, sc in next *. ch 1 and turn
Row 3: 8 (9,10) slip stitches, Ch1, 1 sc in every sc leaving 8(8,9) stitches unworked. Ch 1 and turn
Row 4: sc in the first stitch, skip 1 sc, bobble in the next sc. *1sc, 1 bobble* repeat from * to * across until there are 2 stitches left. skip 1 stitch, 1 sc in the next (16 bobbles for the small.
Row 5: sc in first stitch, skip 1 sc, sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in every stitch across until there are 2 stitches left. Skip 1 stitch, sc in the last stitch. Ch1 and turn.

Repeat rows 4 and 5 until you count 7 (8,9) bobble rows. Stop decreasing.

1 sc in each stitch.

1 dc in every sc. Fasten off.

crochet sleeve shaping

To finish: Block the sleeves and each panel.

With right sides facing sew the front and back panel together at the shoulder seams, I used a sc join. Join the body using a whip stitch so the seam is not so obvious. Set the sleeve into the armhole and use a sc stitch to join.

To set the sleeve, start by pinning the sleeve at the shoulder and armhole and stretch the sleeve to fit the armhole.

Weave in all ends and if desired block gain.

And there you have it a completed crochet bobble stitch top. I hope you enjoyed crocheting the Bobble in Time top, I know I loved designing it. Tag me and let me know what yarns you have used to make this top!

crochet bobble stitch sleeve

Other Garment Patterns you might like:

Peach Fuzz skirt – a crochet a line skirt made using Vidalana Aloft Yarn

Las Nubes – a reverse raglan crochet top.

Summer Fan Top – Similar construction to this crochet bobble stitch top but with an open fan yoke and no sleeve caps.

4 thoughts on “Crochet Bobble in Time Top

  1. Hi There,
    This top is so cute! I would really love to start on it but have a couple of questions.
    What are the measurements on the different sizes? I have 250 grams of wool/bamboo yarn, would that be enough to make it in any size in a solid color?.
    And lastly, I checked out your Etsy shop but didn’t see this particular pattern there.
    Is it just here on the blog?
    So many questions! I feel like a five year old. ??.
    Thank you so much for sharing your free patterns, you are very talented.??

    1. Hi Anna!
      Thank you so much for your questions. Since this pattern is more like a recipe I haven’t added it to my etsy page. It is my intent to properly grade this garment and include it in my shop. As to your yarn requirements. I made the smallest size and used 150g of fingering weight yarn. Of course yarn usage also depends on your gauge that and how generous of a yardage you have in 100g. If you are up for it, I would calculate the yardage based on your tension square. I want to say that 250 would be good for the first two sizes.

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