Do you, like me, dream of vintage inspired pieces? If you do, then join me in making the Marejada Sweater.
Inspiration and Design
Does an idea ever sneak into your brain and quietly whisper to you? For me, it was less of a whisper and more of a roar, but the point still stands. I had an idea bloom.
When did this idea start?
Let’s go back to 2017 and my first knit garment, a cropped sweater for winter by Andi Satterlund. While the sweater is a beginner friendly pattern it does introduce an interesting top down method. The same one that I use in this Marejada sweater pattern.
Before we talk construction I want to thank L’anitica for naming this pattern. That’s right, even though this design has been on my mind for 3+ years it didn’t have a name until 2021. I just called it the Cadet sweater, so named because of the yarn I chose.
While the technique was inspired by Andi Satterlund, the fit and style are a nod to my vintage interests. I’ve come across many a vintage knit pattern that have puff sleeves and a fitted body. Edwardian cycling sweater anyone? Also, Sirdar 1475 is a crush of mine. While I dare not attempt making these designs yet, I do love their classic chic vibe.
Construction of the Marejada Sweater
Both the cropped sweater for winter and the marejada sweater begin at the top back. Once that portion is complete we make shoulder tabs and work our way to the front of the garment. After the front panel is complete, we join in the round. Finally, we pick up stitches and work our sleeve top down.
Just like that, we have no seams. We do have ends to weave in, but no seams. A good compromise I think.
Since I already had the technique in mind, choosing the stitches and the fit of the garment wasn’t difficult. They needed to look relatively similar in both directions (top and down) and work well with worsted weight wool.
As previously mentioned, I choose a worsted weight yarn in the Cadet color. Specifically, Wool of the Andes by Knit Picks. This is a lovely wooly yarn that comes in a 50g skeins. Not only is the wool wonderful to work with, it comes in a variety of colors. Although, I do have to say, the cadet color has a special corner of my heart.
Allow me to tell you a story about this yarn. In the year 20BP (before pandemic) I don’t recall the exact date, but the point is I only bought 2 skeins. I know, but I wasn’t sure I would like the color. Silly of me.
Fast forward to 2020, the sweater idea is still there and so is my desire to make it. I almost panicked when I saw that they no longer carried that color in their non-superwash range.
A pause to imagine my reaction.
Alas the yarn gods were in my favor and Wecrochet carried the color in their superwash range. Fine by me.
Of course, once the sweater construction was underway, I couldn’t resist adding the ribs and cuff in a contrasting worsted weight yarn. Because, Life is in the details.
This vintage inspired crochet sweater has ribbed hems and puffed elbow length sleeves. My Shakespearean movie-watching self would be very proud of me.
The paid for pdf pattern includes a pattern schematic and a video tutorial.
- Yarn – Wool of the Andes, 100% Superwash Wool, 110yds in 50g.
- Total Yarn for Sweater: 305(348, 420, 465, 525, 570, 635) g of Worsted Weight Wool. 6(7,9,10,11,12,13) balls of 50g worsted weight wool.
- Estimated CC amounts (for optional contrasting cuffs, neckline and ribbing, if desired): 50(50, 60, 70, 90, 100, 110) g of Worsted Weight Wool
*Note: If using a contrasting color for cuffs, neckline and ribbing, total yarn required for the main color will be less than stated above.
- Hooks: Size 6.5m (Sample created with a Clover Amour hook.)
- Other Items: Scissors, Tape measure, yarn needle, stitch markers.
Stitch pattern for the body: Alternating sl st BLO and sc BLO rows/rnds.
Gauge (after blocking)
- For body in the pattern described above: 12 st x 13 rows done with a 6.5mm hook = 4”x4”
- For sleeve in sc: 12 st x 13 rnds done with a 6.5mm hook = 4”x4”
Size in inches (after blocking):
|Length w/o rib||17.75||18.25||18.75||18.75||19||19.25||19.25|
- sc – single crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- sl st BLO – slip stitch back loop only
- scBLO – single crochet back loop only
- rep – repeat
- pm – place marker
- dec – decrease. Pick up the front loop of the next stitch and the back loop of the following, Yarn over, pull through. Make your sc as usual.
- You will begin at the top of the back side of the garment.
- Ch1 does not count as a stitch.
- Don’t tighten your slip stitches.
- Yarn amounts given are for the gauge established. Any changes will require more or less yarn.
- Combine sizes to get your desired shape.
- I’m also making a version in Chroma twist worsted
- Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch, and in each sc, ch1 and turn. 44(50,56,62,68,74,80)
- Row 2 (WS): sl st BLO to end of row, ch1 and turn.
- Row 3: ScBLO to the end of row, ch1 and turn.
Repeat rows 2&3 until you complete 17 (19,19,19,19,19,19) more rows.
- ScBLO 9(10,12,12,15,15,16,16), ch1 and turn.
- Sl st BLO to end of the row. 9(10,12,12,15,15,16,16)
- Rows 3 to 7(7,9,9,9,11,11): Repeat rows 1&2, you should end on a sc row.
- Cut yarn
Attach yarn 9(10,12,12,15,15,16,16) stitches from the end of row.
Repeat instructions for right back.
- Row 1: 9(10,12,12,15,15,16,16)sl st BLO, ch 26(30,32,38,38,44,48), 9(10,12,12,15,15,16,16)sl st BLO, ch1 and turn.
- Row 2: ScBLO to end of row, ch1 and turn. 44(50,56,62,68,74,80)
- Row 3: Sl st BLO to end of row, ch1 and turn.
Repeat rows 2&3 until you complete 17(19,19,19,19,19,19) more rows.
Do not cut yarn.
After we complete the front panel we will join to begin working in the round. PM marker in the first stitch.
Rnd 1: Sl st BLO in each st of both the front and back panel, sl st to first st made to join. Ch1 and turn. 88(100,112,124,136,148,160)
Rnd 2: Sc BLO to end of round, sl st to join, ch1 and turn.
Repeat rounds 1&2: 12(10,10,10,10,8,8) more rnds.
PM in first stitch, pm second marker at halfway point.
- Rnd 1: sl st in first st, sk1 1, sl st to the next marker, sk marked st, sl st to end of rnd, sl st to join, ch1 and turn. 86(98,110,122,134,146,158) (Move your stitch markers up with each rnd.)
- Rnd 2: Sc BLO to marked stitch, dec, rpm, sc BLO to 2 stitches before beg marker, dec, scBLO in last stitch, sl st to join, ch1 and turn. 84(96,108,120,132,144,156)
Rep rounds 1&2: until you have completed 6(10,12,12,12,12,12) more rnds. You should have a total of 72(76,84,96,108,120,132) stitches.
*Note: If you need more or less decreases make sure you end on a sc round.
Alternate sl st BLO and scBLO rounds until you have completed 8(6,4,4,6,6,6)rnds.
Block your piece to size and length w/o rib measurement indicated. Rib will add 2.25”.
If you want the garment more cropped rip back rounds. Make sure you end on a sc round.
The rib is worked vertically and connected to the sweater with sl st. We alternate between working 1 sl st, and 2. By doing so, I make sure the rib doesn’t pull in too much. CC is optional at this point.
Set up: Ch8, starting in 2nd ch, sc in each ch stitch, sl st to the next 2 sweater stitches, ch1, turn.
Row1: 7sc BLO, ch1 and turn.
Row2: 7sc BLO, sl st to the next 2 sweater stitches, ch1 and turn.
Row3: 7sc BLO, ch1 and turn.
Row4: 7sc BLO, sl st to the next sweater stitch, ch1 and turn.
Repeat rows 1 to 4 until you have used up all body stitches. Seam your rib.
Sleeves (make 2)
The sleeves are worked in the round with sc.
- Rnd 1: Sl st 36(40,42,44,50,56,58)around the armhole, join with a sl st to close the rnd, ch1.(*Note you are not making a stitch in each row.) Pm to denote the top 10 stitches of your sleeve, shoulder area)
- Rnd 2: Sc until you reach the marker, 2sc in the next 10 stitches, sc to end of rnd. 46(50,52,54,60,66,68)
- Rnd 3: Sc to end of rnd, sl to join, ch1. 46(50,52,54,60,66,68)
- Repeat rnd 3 until you have completed 31(34,34,35,36,36,36) rnds.
Next 2 rnds: *3sc, dec; rep from *until less than 5 stitches remain, sc to end of round, sl to join, ch1. 30(32,34,36,39)
- *4sc, dec; rep from * to end of rnd, sl st to join, ch1. (55)
- *3sc, dec; rep from * to end of rnd, sl st to join. (44) Cut yarn, fasten off.
- *2sc,dec; rep from * to end of rnd (51)
- *15sc, dec; rep from *to end of rnd, sl to join, ch1. (48)
- *8sc, dec; rep from *to end of rnd, sl to join. (44)
Once the body and sleeves are complete you are almost at the home stretch!
All sizes (CC optional)
- Row1: ch8, starting in 2nd ch from hook make 7sc, sl st in the next 2 sleeve stitches, ch1 and turn.
- Row2: 7scBLO, ch1 and turn.
- Row3: 7scBLO, sl st in next 2 sleeve stitches, ch1 and turn.
- Repeat rows 2&3 until all sleeve stitches have been used. Seam your cuff closed.
Starting at the top mid back
Base rnd (CC optional): Around the neck opening, make 60(60,80,82,86,88,88) Sl stitches, join with a sl st to the first stitch and ch1.
- Rnd1: Sc to the end of the rnd, join with a sl st, ch5.
- Row1: 4sc, sl st in the next 2 neckline stitches, ch1 and turn.
- Row2: 4scBLO, ch1, turn.
- Row3: 4scBLO, sl st in the next 2 neckline stitches, ch1 and turn.
Repeat rows 2&3 until all neckline stitches have been used.
Seam your rib.
This is it, you have reached the end of the crochet portion for the marejada sweater. Isn’t it amazing?!
Before you start a celebratory dance:
- Weave in all your ends
- Block sleeves to measurements given.
- Style it!
It almost sounds like a poem doesn’t it? Weave it, block it, style it! And do tag me on Instagram or ravelry when you complete your garment.
Thus we complete the marejada sweater pattern. #crochetmarejadasweater
Want to see more crochetcakes style? – Here