The vintage waves crochet sweater is a crocheters stash busting dream. Start top down and try on as you go!
In part I of the Vintage Waves crochet sweater we went over the inspiration, and the yarn. Today, I want to emphasize that the Vintage Waves Sweater is a stash busting marvel.
So far, I have made 3 different versions all with slightly different yarns. Well, I have yet to finish what I’m calling my summer version, but the point still stands. I have used different yarn brands to convey my Vintage Waves Crochet Sweater.
This was the first version of the sweater I crocheted and the one I used to calculate the gauge and grade the pattern. For this version I used Drops Safran, and a Sportweight wool that I had acquired ages ago.
This sportweight yarn (Dumble Sport by Emmy Couture, no longer dyes) was heavier than the sport weight used for the blue/green version. But as the wool is still Merino, it’s not as hot as a woolier wool.
To crochet this version of the Vintage Waves crochet sweater I again used Drops Safran, but I combined it with a different sport weight base. Postcript, fully spun yarns sport weight base, is slightly thinner than the Dumble sport. However, because of it’s yardage, it still falls under the sport category.
Unlike with the spring version, I don’t have enough of this yarn to complete the sweater, so I was cheeky and purchased some yarn. Don’t feel like I’m misleading you, I did try looking in my stash but I didn’t like the options presented. Also, it’s titled alohamora and it’s a beautiful green that was also 50% off… Whilst on the topic of purchasing more yarn…
Fall Version of the Vintage Waves Crochet Sweater
As I only had 50g left of the Patons Kroy Sock, I ventured to ye olde amazon to acquire more. Also, don’t yell at me but remember this make?
Well, it was sacrificed at the altar of the vintage waves sweater. Perhaps you might consider it a shame, but I do love the fall version of this crochet sweater so I can’t bring myself to dislike the decision.
Oh, and this yarn in lionbrand oh baby organic cotton in olive I believe. I truly love this color.
More details on this fall sweater make to come anon.
As always you can find an Ad-free PDF version of this pattern
Vintage Waves Crochet Sweater
- 115 (135,150,180) 205(235,250,265,285)g of Drops Safran / 175 yds in 50g / 100% Egyptian Cotton (Sport ) * aff link
- 115 (135,150,180) 205(235,250,265,285)g of Sport Weight Merino Wool / 328 yds in 100g
- Hook Sizes *aff links
- Tape measure
- yarn needle * aff link
Sample: Made in size 1
Model Size: 33” bust / 29” waist / 5’7 height.
Gauge: IS VERY IMPORTANT, IF CHANGES, IT AFFECTS ALL SIZES AND MEASUREMENTS GIVEN.
- done in Sc V pattern (changing color every round
- 16 sts (8 Sc V’s) x 15 rnds = 4 x 4” completed with a 4mm hook.
- It’s recommended to complete a swatch larger than 4” for more accurate results.
- If you cannot match gauge please be aware that your the given measurements for size will change.
- swatch was layed flat to dry.
Stitches and Abbreviations
sl st: slip stitch
Fsc: foundation single crochet
sc: single crochet
sc2inc: single crochet increase
sc2dec: single crochet decrease
Pm: place marker
Rm: replace marker
Sc V: even multiples
[Sc, ch2, sc] in each ch2 space from the previous rnd.
- Yarn choices: you can work the sweater in fingering weight yarn as well. The autumnal version has been worked in Lion Brand Baby Organic Cotton and Patons Kroy sock. The latter is a lofty fingering weight yarn at 332 yds in 100g.
- Sl st does not count as a stitch.
- For inc rnd’s we work the sc’s in sc, unless otherwise stated.
- After the short rows, we change color every round.
- If you add length to the body or make longer sleeves, your yarn amounts will change.
- Sweater is constructed top down in continuous rnds. Then we separate the torso and sleeves. Continue working on the body and then we attach yarn to work on the sleeves.
- The short rows are the only part of the sweater not worked in a continuous round.
Paid PDF includes video help on page 7
Torso and Sleeve Separation
All sizes: *Sc, invisible sc2dec (over 2nd ch of ch2 space and next sc); rep from * to end or rnd , sl st to first sc made, cut your yarn. 180(192,200,224) 252(280,300,320,336)
For the next rnd the sc we work into should be the dec one from the row below. This ensures that our ScV’s are aligned.
Make sure that when you are skipping sts for the armhole that you end on a V.
To have short rows centered at the back. Cut yarn, attach it 6 sts to the right of your first st (the one you sl st into to close the rnd)
sk 1,(the st you attached yarn to)[Sc v, sk1] over 28 sts, Sc V, sk 40, ch12, sl st in next st (counts are our sk stitch), [Sc V, sk1] over the next 50, ch12, sk 40,[Sc V, sk1] over next 18 sts, Sc V in last st.
[sk 1, Sc V] in next 32 sts,(end on a v) ch 16, sk 44, [Sc V, sk 1] over next 50 sts, Sc V in the next, sl st, ch16, sk 44, sl st in next st (counts as sk st), [Sc V, sk 1] in next 20 sts.
[sk1, Sc V] over 34 sts, ch 18, sk 44, [Sc V, sk 1] over 56 sts (28 v’s), sl st in next (counts as your sk st), ch18, sk 44, [Sc V, sk1] over 20 sts, Sc V in last st.
[sk 1, Sc V] in next 38 sts, ch 20, sk 48, sl st in next st, [Sc V, sk1] over next 60 sts, Sc V in next st, ch 20, sk 48, sl st in next (counts as sk st), [Sc V, sk1] over next 26 sts, Sc V in last st.
[sk1, Sc V] over next 42 sts, ch 22, sk 54, [Sc V, sk1] over next 68, Sc v in the next, ch 22, sk 54, [Sc V, sk 1] over next 32 sts, Sc V in last st.
sk 1, [Sc V, sk1] over 42 sts, Sc V in the next, ch 24, sk 62, sl st in next (we count this as our sk st), [Sc V, sk 1] in next 76 sts, ch24, sk 62, sl st in next (we count this as our sk st), [Sc V, sk 1] over next 34 sts.
sk 1, [Sc V, sk1] in next 44 sts, Sc V in the next, ch 24, sk 68, sl st in next (we count this as our sk st), [Sc V, sk 1] in next 82 sts, ch24, sk 68, sl st in next (we count this as our sk st), [Sc V, sk 1] in next 34 sts.
sk 1, [Sc V, sk 1] in next 46 sts, Sc V in the next, ch 28, sk 74, sl st in next (counts as our sk st), [Sc V, sk 1] in next 86 sts, ch28, sk 74, sl st in next (counts as sk st), [Sc V, sk 1] in next 36 sts.
sk 1, [Sc V, sk1] in next 52 sts, Sc V in the next, ch 28, sk 74, sl st in next (counts as our sk st), [Sc V, sk 1], in next 94 sts, ch28, sk 74, sl st in next (we count this as our sk st), [Sc V, sk 1] in next 40 sts.
Note: Try on the sweater to make sure it’s a comfortable fit, the short rows are at the back of the neck, and that the armholes are proportionate to you.. At this stage you could also steam block it to ensure accurate results.
*Sc V until you reach the ch’s [Sc V, sk 1] in next 12(16,18,20) 22(24,24,28,28)ch’s; rep from * once more, Sc V to end of rnd.
Continue working Sc V pattern, changing color every rnd, until your work (after sleeve and torso separation) measures 8.5”/25cm or 32 rnds. Alternatively, you can keep going and make it as long as you want.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Sleeve (make 2) switch to a 3.75mm hook.
Notes for sleeves:
Attach your corresponding yarn color to a sc2dec at the back of the sleeve.
When you reach your ch’s, work sc V in the same chains you previously worked in for the body.
Remember to change color in every rnd.
Rnd 1: *Sc V, sk 1; rep from * to end of rnd. You should have 6(8,9,10) 11(12,12,14,14) V’s) in the underarm.
Rnd 2 to 6: Sc V around.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Once you are happy with your garment. Weave in all ends and lightly wash garment. Lay flat to dry.